Day: 018
Date: Monday, 14 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Muttaburra to Hughenden.
Start: Muttaburra
Finish: Hughenden
Daily Kilometres: 205
Total Kilometres: 2518
Weather: Mild early but warm to hot and sunny for the rest of the day with north-east wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Hughenden , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Peanut butter roll
Dinner: Hamburger and milkshake
Encounters: I saw quite a few kangaroos during the day. In late morning a guy in a station-wagon passed me and then pulled up further down the road and got out. It turned out he was a New Zealander of similar age to me who was travelling Australia and bike-riding each of the circuits recommended in the Lonely Planet guide to cycling in Australia. He had his bike and trailer in the back and was headed forCairns for his next circuit. He was very friendly and we had a good chat.
Highlights: Seeing the lights of Hughenden at the end of a very long and exhausting day.
Lowlights: Encountering a strong headwind and very rough trail early in the day, which frequently reduced my speed to less than 15kph.
Journal:
I had set out in the 6:00am pre-dawn gloom in the optimistic hope that, if things went well, I might reach Hughenden in one day, instead of the planned two, and be able to give myself a day off. I was, however, quite apprehensive about how tough the trail would be and knew I might have to camp out. Before long I was struggling to find a good riding line on a trail that varied from rocky, to corrugated, to sandy. To compound the challenges the trail began to climb very gradually into open undulating grassland and the wind sprang up from the north-east. It was tiring work and my optimism evaporated as I struggled to maintain a speed of around 15kph and I began resigning myself to camping on the road.
As the morning wore on the trail veered slightly to the left, meaning that the wind became a crosswind, and changed to mostly baked and cracked mud. The latter allowed greater speed but was quite bumpy. My spirits lifted as my speed rose, although every time the track veered right the wind slowed me again.
A few cars and trucks passed and some of the cars stopped to ask whether I was OK or needed anything, which was nice. All waved.
The day passed riding through the undulating grasslands in increasing temperatures and I was drinking plenty of the nine litres of fluid I was carrying. Despite the fatigue, I enjoyed the solitude and scenery. Mountain ranges were appearing to the north and east and I had the sense that I was gradually climbing into the foothills. The sun finally set around 6:00pm with 30kms to go to Hughenden so I kept riding. The last hour 15km was on sealed road which made riding in the dark easier, although it was very narrow with no white road markings. I had both hands on the brakes at all times in case of sharp turns or roadkill lying on the road. The lights of Hughenden appeared in the distance with 10km to go and I reached town at 7:30pm, checked into a Fawlty Towers-like motel in the centre of town, showered and got a hamburger from a nearby take-out shop. I was very tired and my quads were stiff and sore, but I was pleased with my effort and looking forward to a day off tomorrow.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Barcaldine to Muttaburra
Day: 017
Date: Sunday, 13 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Barcaldine to Muttaburra.
Start: Barcaldine
Finish: Muttaburra
Daily Kilometres: 150
Total Kilometres: 2313
Weather: Cool early but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Hotel in Muttaburra , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: The “Big Breakfast” from the roadhouse opposite the motel
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Chicken Kiev (which I only bought on the recommendation of the barmaid and regretted later) for dinner.
Encounters: I saw quite a few emus during the day.
Highlights: Getting to some real Australian outback towns (Aramac and Muttaburra) which are well away from any main travel routes. They are little oases (that may be overstating it a bit!) in the vast dry grass and scrub plains that roll away to the horizon in all directions. The towns themselves are pretty dry with Queenslander-type houses and/or broad verandahs, some in poor condition, dry dusty and wide streets, and lots of vacant lots and junk. Each town has a pub which looks a bit worse for wear and a couple of little stores
Lowlights: The morning started in a relaxed way, when I got up an hour later and treated myself to breakfast at the roadhouse across the road, before setting off at 8:00am. My plan was to have an easy 66km ride to Aramac where I would have lunch. But the best laid plans….. As I left town and struck north onto the treeless grassy plains, the north-east wind sprang up and I was soon struggling to make headway. It took four hours to get to Aramac, hard work all of the way, and I barely averaged 18kph.
Journal:
By the time I had a late breakfast and left Barcaldine at 8:00am, it was already warm enough to wear just a T-shirt. Hopefully the cold mornings are behind me now. The countryside quickly became prairie-like rolling dry grass-covered hills with scarcely a tree in sight and the wind blew steadily from the north-east, making it very tough riding. Tumbleweeds were rolling down the road towards me on occasions as if to emphasize the wind. Aramac and Muttaburra are off the main travel routes and the road narrowed to a thin strip of bitumen although there was virtually no traffic.
I eventually struggled into Aramac around noon and rode around town a bit trying to find the pub and shopping centre. The bowling club was a hive of activity, with serious competition taking place, but the rest of the town, including the main street which I eventually found, was dead. The only place open was the pub and the only food available was burgers or pies, so I chose pies. There were a couple of regulars in the pub watching, and betting on, the races but, otherwise, not much happening.
Fortunately the road to Muttaburra was more to the north-east and the wind now became following or cross for the remainder of the afternoon and I made good time to Muttaburra, although it got quite hot riding. I got a basic ($22) room at the rambling but quaint pub, had a shower and bought some supplies at the adjacent store/service station. I bought a pack of frozen bread rolls (all bread is sold frozen in this part of the world) to do for dinner and maybe lunch in the next two days. It is 205km to Hughenden on unsealed roads and I have allowed myself two days for the trip. However, I will get going early and see how far I can get tomorrow. If things go well, and conditions are favourable, I might even make it all of the way to Hughenden.
Date: Sunday, 13 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Barcaldine to Muttaburra.
Start: Barcaldine
Finish: Muttaburra
Daily Kilometres: 150
Total Kilometres: 2313
Weather: Cool early but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Hotel in Muttaburra , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: The “Big Breakfast” from the roadhouse opposite the motel
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Chicken Kiev (which I only bought on the recommendation of the barmaid and regretted later) for dinner.
Encounters: I saw quite a few emus during the day.
Highlights: Getting to some real Australian outback towns (Aramac and Muttaburra) which are well away from any main travel routes. They are little oases (that may be overstating it a bit!) in the vast dry grass and scrub plains that roll away to the horizon in all directions. The towns themselves are pretty dry with Queenslander-type houses and/or broad verandahs, some in poor condition, dry dusty and wide streets, and lots of vacant lots and junk. Each town has a pub which looks a bit worse for wear and a couple of little stores
Lowlights: The morning started in a relaxed way, when I got up an hour later and treated myself to breakfast at the roadhouse across the road, before setting off at 8:00am. My plan was to have an easy 66km ride to Aramac where I would have lunch. But the best laid plans….. As I left town and struck north onto the treeless grassy plains, the north-east wind sprang up and I was soon struggling to make headway. It took four hours to get to Aramac, hard work all of the way, and I barely averaged 18kph.
Journal:
By the time I had a late breakfast and left Barcaldine at 8:00am, it was already warm enough to wear just a T-shirt. Hopefully the cold mornings are behind me now. The countryside quickly became prairie-like rolling dry grass-covered hills with scarcely a tree in sight and the wind blew steadily from the north-east, making it very tough riding. Tumbleweeds were rolling down the road towards me on occasions as if to emphasize the wind. Aramac and Muttaburra are off the main travel routes and the road narrowed to a thin strip of bitumen although there was virtually no traffic.
I eventually struggled into Aramac around noon and rode around town a bit trying to find the pub and shopping centre. The bowling club was a hive of activity, with serious competition taking place, but the rest of the town, including the main street which I eventually found, was dead. The only place open was the pub and the only food available was burgers or pies, so I chose pies. There were a couple of regulars in the pub watching, and betting on, the races but, otherwise, not much happening.
Fortunately the road to Muttaburra was more to the north-east and the wind now became following or cross for the remainder of the afternoon and I made good time to Muttaburra, although it got quite hot riding. I got a basic ($22) room at the rambling but quaint pub, had a shower and bought some supplies at the adjacent store/service station. I bought a pack of frozen bread rolls (all bread is sold frozen in this part of the world) to do for dinner and maybe lunch in the next two days. It is 205km to Hughenden on unsealed roads and I have allowed myself two days for the trip. However, I will get going early and see how far I can get tomorrow. If things go well, and conditions are favourable, I might even make it all of the way to Hughenden.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Tambo to Barcaldine
Day: 016
Date: Saturday, 12 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Tambo to Barcaldine.
Start: Tambo
Finish: Barcaldine
Daily Kilometres: 207
Total Kilometres: 2163
Weather: Cold early (3°C) but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Motel in Barcaldine , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Some snacks
Lunch: Two pies lunch
Dinner: Works burger for dinner (what a healthy day!).
Encounters: I saw quite a few (live) kangaroos and a pelican on one of the inland billabongs I passed.
Highlights: Reaching the halfway point, although it’s hard to believe that I am only half-way when I’m already so far north into Queensland .
Lowlights: This was a pretty tough day. The weather is getting quite warm during the day and being the third 200km day in a row, I’m beginning to feel quite tired. It will be good to have a few shorter days and, assuming the gravel roads aren’t too bad, I might take half a day off in Hughenden in three days time.
Journal:
It was again very cold as I set off and my feet and fingers again froze for the first couple of hours. I hadn’t really been looking forward to this third 200km day, but seem to be managing. The scenery continued to be predominantly rolling open cattle grazing country with occasional timbered areas. I decided to ride straight through to Blackall (100km) and have a late breakfast and reached there about 11:15am. There wasn’t much choice for food and I finally ended up just getting some pies from the local bakery and buying a couple of pastries which I kept for afternoon tea.
Around noon I set out on the 107km to Barcaldine, my target for the day and just kept plodding along, taking a break every 20km. It’s getting warmer and I have noticed I am drinking a lot more. When I hit the back roads from Muttaburra to Hughenden, which may take me a couple of days, I will need to make sure I carry quite a lot of water. I will save some of my Diet Coke bottles to use for extra water.
I got to Barcaldine around 5:30pm after riding the last 40km through quite picturesque forests. There was water in some of the watercourses and some attractive billabongs off in the forest in a couple of places. It doesn’t look too drought-stricken around here. I found a motel in the middle of town and got take-out for dinner. I may start an hour later tomorrow in view of the shorter day (150km).
Date: Saturday, 12 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Tambo to Barcaldine.
Start: Tambo
Finish: Barcaldine
Daily Kilometres: 207
Total Kilometres: 2163
Weather: Cold early (3°C) but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Motel in Barcaldine , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Some snacks
Lunch: Two pies lunch
Dinner: Works burger for dinner (what a healthy day!).
Encounters: I saw quite a few (live) kangaroos and a pelican on one of the inland billabongs I passed.
Highlights: Reaching the halfway point, although it’s hard to believe that I am only half-way when I’m already so far north into Queensland .
Lowlights: This was a pretty tough day. The weather is getting quite warm during the day and being the third 200km day in a row, I’m beginning to feel quite tired. It will be good to have a few shorter days and, assuming the gravel roads aren’t too bad, I might take half a day off in Hughenden in three days time.
Journal:
It was again very cold as I set off and my feet and fingers again froze for the first couple of hours. I hadn’t really been looking forward to this third 200km day, but seem to be managing. The scenery continued to be predominantly rolling open cattle grazing country with occasional timbered areas. I decided to ride straight through to Blackall (100km) and have a late breakfast and reached there about 11:15am. There wasn’t much choice for food and I finally ended up just getting some pies from the local bakery and buying a couple of pastries which I kept for afternoon tea.
Around noon I set out on the 107km to Barcaldine, my target for the day and just kept plodding along, taking a break every 20km. It’s getting warmer and I have noticed I am drinking a lot more. When I hit the back roads from Muttaburra to Hughenden, which may take me a couple of days, I will need to make sure I carry quite a lot of water. I will save some of my Diet Coke bottles to use for extra water.
I got to Barcaldine around 5:30pm after riding the last 40km through quite picturesque forests. There was water in some of the watercourses and some attractive billabongs off in the forest in a couple of places. It doesn’t look too drought-stricken around here. I found a motel in the middle of town and got take-out for dinner. I may start an hour later tomorrow in view of the shorter day (150km).
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Charleville to Tambo
Day: 015
Date: Friday, 11 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Charleville to Tambo.
Start: Charleville
Finish: Tambo
Daily Kilometres: 198
Total Kilometres: 1956
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate east (head early, following/cross later) wind.
Accommodation: Very basic hotel room in Tambo , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Two pies and a milkshake
Dinner: Beef sausages
Encounters: I rode into the very small town of Augathella , which was a little way off the highway, looking for something for an early lunch, and decided it must be the obesity centre of Queensland . I cruised past the only hotel in town where, on the verandah, were four of the biggest guys I have seen enjoying a morning beer and then, when I stopped in at the general store, I was greeted by two more of the biggest people I have seen. There must be something in the water there.
Highlights: In the late afternoon I crested a ridge to find a sign saying it was the highest point on the Queensland Mains Roads system (hard-to believe, but maybe they meant west of the Great Divide). The ridge also marked the southern edge of the Cooper River catchment system from where all water flows into Lake Eyre . From the ridge there was a very gradual descent into a vast basin which was treeless except for occasional lines of scraggly gums that indicated where there were dry watercourses. The straight road disappeared into the far distance and a road train that went past me at high speed was still clearly visible several minutes later. You could see mountain ranges to the north and east, some of which would have been part of the Carnarvon National Park that Barb and I have enjoyed visiting on several occasions in the past.
Lowlights: The first two hours riding of the day when it was freezing cold made worse by a steady headwind. Not only were my fingers and toes frozen, but I could tell it was going to be a long day unless the wind changed.
Journal:
I left the motel at 6:15am, stopping at the town bakery on the way out to pick up some pastries to eat later for breakfast. It was very cold and I quickly realised that the headwind was making it even colder. The wind was an easterly and I therefore had it against me until I reached Augathella (83km) in late morning. The terrain had become more hilly and my average speed must have been under 20kph. The countryside, which was a mixture of grass and scrub, looked quite healthy and the cattle all seemed in good condition (to my very untrained eye). The few homesteads I could see from the road also looked large and prosperous.
I rode into Augathella, which seemed a pleasant Queensland-style small town in the hope of finding a bakery for an early lunch, but finally ended up at a roadhouse where I got a couple of pies and a milkshake. While at the roadhouse I called a hotel/motel in Tambo to book a room for the night. I had heard on the ABC that it was some kind of anniversary weekend in Tambo with a number of events scheduled and crowds expected. No motel rooms were available, but the publican said he had a basic hotel room that he would hold for me.
To my delight, when I set out from the roadhouse for the remaining 115km to Tambo, I found that the wind was now either across me or from behind, and I made much better speed during the afternoon. This road, which is now the main route between Brisbane and Mount Isa , is a little busier, but still not bad and there are often long periods with no traffic in either direction. Almost all motorists and truckies give me a wave when they pass.
I reached Tambo, which is a very old town around 5:15pm and checked into my very basic hotel room. I doubt that it has changed much since shearers stayed here in the 19th Century! The town was buzzing as the Tambo Shire celebrated its 125th anniversary and the pub was humming until well after midnight, making it difficult to get to sleep.
I’ve only got two more days now on sealed roads before 500+km of gravel roads in little-travelled parts of the outback. I’m starting to get a bit apprehensive about how rough they will be and how slowly I will have to travel.
Date: Friday, 11 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Charleville to Tambo.
Start: Charleville
Finish: Tambo
Daily Kilometres: 198
Total Kilometres: 1956
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate east (head early, following/cross later) wind.
Accommodation: Very basic hotel room in Tambo , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Two pies and a milkshake
Dinner: Beef sausages
Encounters: I rode into the very small town of Augathella , which was a little way off the highway, looking for something for an early lunch, and decided it must be the obesity centre of Queensland . I cruised past the only hotel in town where, on the verandah, were four of the biggest guys I have seen enjoying a morning beer and then, when I stopped in at the general store, I was greeted by two more of the biggest people I have seen. There must be something in the water there.
Highlights: In the late afternoon I crested a ridge to find a sign saying it was the highest point on the Queensland Mains Roads system (hard-to believe, but maybe they meant west of the Great Divide). The ridge also marked the southern edge of the Cooper River catchment system from where all water flows into Lake Eyre . From the ridge there was a very gradual descent into a vast basin which was treeless except for occasional lines of scraggly gums that indicated where there were dry watercourses. The straight road disappeared into the far distance and a road train that went past me at high speed was still clearly visible several minutes later. You could see mountain ranges to the north and east, some of which would have been part of the Carnarvon National Park that Barb and I have enjoyed visiting on several occasions in the past.
Lowlights: The first two hours riding of the day when it was freezing cold made worse by a steady headwind. Not only were my fingers and toes frozen, but I could tell it was going to be a long day unless the wind changed.
Journal:
I left the motel at 6:15am, stopping at the town bakery on the way out to pick up some pastries to eat later for breakfast. It was very cold and I quickly realised that the headwind was making it even colder. The wind was an easterly and I therefore had it against me until I reached Augathella (83km) in late morning. The terrain had become more hilly and my average speed must have been under 20kph. The countryside, which was a mixture of grass and scrub, looked quite healthy and the cattle all seemed in good condition (to my very untrained eye). The few homesteads I could see from the road also looked large and prosperous.
I rode into Augathella, which seemed a pleasant Queensland-style small town in the hope of finding a bakery for an early lunch, but finally ended up at a roadhouse where I got a couple of pies and a milkshake. While at the roadhouse I called a hotel/motel in Tambo to book a room for the night. I had heard on the ABC that it was some kind of anniversary weekend in Tambo with a number of events scheduled and crowds expected. No motel rooms were available, but the publican said he had a basic hotel room that he would hold for me.
To my delight, when I set out from the roadhouse for the remaining 115km to Tambo, I found that the wind was now either across me or from behind, and I made much better speed during the afternoon. This road, which is now the main route between Brisbane and Mount Isa , is a little busier, but still not bad and there are often long periods with no traffic in either direction. Almost all motorists and truckies give me a wave when they pass.
I reached Tambo, which is a very old town around 5:15pm and checked into my very basic hotel room. I doubt that it has changed much since shearers stayed here in the 19th Century! The town was buzzing as the Tambo Shire celebrated its 125th anniversary and the pub was humming until well after midnight, making it difficult to get to sleep.
I’ve only got two more days now on sealed roads before 500+km of gravel roads in little-travelled parts of the outback. I’m starting to get a bit apprehensive about how rough they will be and how slowly I will have to travel.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Cunnamulla to Charleville
Day: 014
Date: Thursday, 10 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Cunnamulla to Charleville.
Start: Cunnamulla
Finish: Charleville
Daily Kilometres: 203
Total Kilometres: 1758
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate south to south-east (following and cross) wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Charleville , Queensland
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and peanut butter roll
Lunch: Hamburger and chips
Dinner: Take-out Thai chicken with cashews for dinner.
Encounters: One emu, a couple of eagles and incredible amounts of roadkill. There would not have been a single 400m that I travelled today that was not home to a piece of roadkill in some phase of decay ranging from just hours old through to bleached indeterminate bones. Mostly it’s kangaroos and wallabies, but also includes occasional emus, eagles, foxes, rabbits, sheep and cattle.
Highlights: I was relieved to have a tail/cross wind all day which enabled me to cover the 200km in very good time without getting too tired.
Lowlights: Thinking about my step-brother whose funeral and wake is being held today in Melbourne .
Journal:
I was on the road by 6:15am in the early dawn light and was pleased to find that yesterday’s headwind had disappeared. It was cold but not freezing and the road was very flat passing through seemingly well-grassed plains. There was quite a lot of water lying around in ditches and I noticed an increasing number of pink and blue wildflowers. I heard on the radio that humidity was close to 10% which meant that visibility was excellent (it also means that my bottom lip, which is already in a sad state from wind/sunburn will need more regularly-applied lip salve). When I looked out across the plains I could see lines of trees in the very far distance. There was very little traffic and I frequently felt like I was the only human for many kilometres. There are less trucks and road trains on this road, but still plenty of grey nomads with their caravans and an increasing number of dilapidated 4WD pickups (remember Wolf Creek , someone said to me before I left on this trip!).
In late morning I arrived at the very small settlement of Wyandra and stopped in at the tiny general store/post office/take-away food outlet. It was surrounded with pieces of disconnected junk/memorabilia and I was invited to take a tour by the proprietor while they cooked the burger they had persuaded me to buy. I ate it at a table in their front yard. For the entire time I was there, the next door neighbour was watering and tending her immaculate garden, which seemed somewhat out of place in this remote outback community.
The afternoon passed quite quickly with the countryside becoming slightly undulating and heavily timbered, though on seemingly very dry bright red soil. Every so often a track entered from the left or right and you could get a glimpse of the olive green scrubby forest stretching far into the distance.
For the whole of today’s ride, a railway line (Cunnamulla was the end of the line) paralleled the road 50 metres to the left. There was no rail activity whatsoever. I suspect it’s not a very profitable line.
I got to Charleville about 4:15pm and found a budget hotel/motel in the centre of town and felt satisfied with a good day on the road. Two more 200km days and hopefully the winds stay favourable. Charleville is the largest town I have passed through since Griffith and seems stately and prosperous relative to the towns of the last few days.
Date: Thursday, 10 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Cunnamulla to Charleville.
Start: Cunnamulla
Finish: Charleville
Daily Kilometres: 203
Total Kilometres: 1758
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate south to south-east (following and cross) wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Charleville , Queensland
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and peanut butter roll
Lunch: Hamburger and chips
Dinner: Take-out Thai chicken with cashews for dinner.
Encounters: One emu, a couple of eagles and incredible amounts of roadkill. There would not have been a single 400m that I travelled today that was not home to a piece of roadkill in some phase of decay ranging from just hours old through to bleached indeterminate bones. Mostly it’s kangaroos and wallabies, but also includes occasional emus, eagles, foxes, rabbits, sheep and cattle.
Highlights: I was relieved to have a tail/cross wind all day which enabled me to cover the 200km in very good time without getting too tired.
Lowlights: Thinking about my step-brother whose funeral and wake is being held today in Melbourne .
Journal:
I was on the road by 6:15am in the early dawn light and was pleased to find that yesterday’s headwind had disappeared. It was cold but not freezing and the road was very flat passing through seemingly well-grassed plains. There was quite a lot of water lying around in ditches and I noticed an increasing number of pink and blue wildflowers. I heard on the radio that humidity was close to 10% which meant that visibility was excellent (it also means that my bottom lip, which is already in a sad state from wind/sunburn will need more regularly-applied lip salve). When I looked out across the plains I could see lines of trees in the very far distance. There was very little traffic and I frequently felt like I was the only human for many kilometres. There are less trucks and road trains on this road, but still plenty of grey nomads with their caravans and an increasing number of dilapidated 4WD pickups (remember Wolf Creek , someone said to me before I left on this trip!).
In late morning I arrived at the very small settlement of Wyandra and stopped in at the tiny general store/post office/take-away food outlet. It was surrounded with pieces of disconnected junk/memorabilia and I was invited to take a tour by the proprietor while they cooked the burger they had persuaded me to buy. I ate it at a table in their front yard. For the entire time I was there, the next door neighbour was watering and tending her immaculate garden, which seemed somewhat out of place in this remote outback community.
The afternoon passed quite quickly with the countryside becoming slightly undulating and heavily timbered, though on seemingly very dry bright red soil. Every so often a track entered from the left or right and you could get a glimpse of the olive green scrubby forest stretching far into the distance.
For the whole of today’s ride, a railway line (Cunnamulla was the end of the line) paralleled the road 50 metres to the left. There was no rail activity whatsoever. I suspect it’s not a very profitable line.
I got to Charleville about 4:15pm and found a budget hotel/motel in the centre of town and felt satisfied with a good day on the road. Two more 200km days and hopefully the winds stay favourable. Charleville is the largest town I have passed through since Griffith and seems stately and prosperous relative to the towns of the last few days.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Cunnamulla
Day: 013
Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2006
Summary: Riding from 60km south of Cunnamulla to Cunnamulla.
Start: 60km south of Cunnamulla
Finish: Cunnamulla
Daily Kilometres: 60
Total Kilometres: 1555
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate northerly (head) wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Cunnamulla , Queensland
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Toasted focaccia sandwich and milkshake
Dinner: Chicken parmigiana for dinner.
Encounters: The Cunnamulla townspeople were all very friendly and interested.
Highlights: Having half a day off to catch up on washing and e-mail and rest the legs.
Lowlights: The 60km ride into Cunnamulla was supposed to be easy, but there was a reasonable headwind and it was a bit of a struggle.
Journal:
Although I frequently awoke during the night, I pretty much slept through from 7:30pm to 6:30am, perhaps an indication that I’m quite tired. I got up just before sunrise and packed up in the 1°C cold and set off at around 7:30am, anticipating an easy ride into Cunnamulla. However, I soon realised there was a headwind, and some minor undulations, which made it hard going. I had only had an apple for breakfast and not much for dinner the night before, so that may not have helped.
As always, if you just keep cranking the pedals you get there in the end, and I reached Cunnamulla at 11:00am. It was a sleepy little town with broad streets, verandahs over the footpaths, and a few stores which carried a combination of goods. There were even a few Queenslander-style houses on stilts. Like most of these outback towns, there were plenty of boarded up stores, derelict properties and bare red earth, indicating declining local economies.
I bought a paper, drink and a couple of pastries and ate them in a cafe, before finding a budget motel on the edge of town. After a shower and baggage sort out I returned to town and mailed back clothes and maps to Copa that I would no longer need. The bag felt quite heavy, so I hope I notice a difference, although I’m going to have to start carrying more water from now on which may offset the weight loss. After lunch in another café, I did a load of washing and spent two hours in the library reading e-mail and sending diary updates and pictures with some difficulty, whilst chatting with the two librarians.
I had a counter tea at a nearby pub and went to bed early. I’m a bit concerned that, having decided not to take a day off in Charleville, I now have three 200km days in succession. I can do it, but I think 160km is probably the optimal long day.
Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2006
Summary: Riding from 60km south of Cunnamulla to Cunnamulla.
Start: 60km south of Cunnamulla
Finish: Cunnamulla
Daily Kilometres: 60
Total Kilometres: 1555
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate northerly (head) wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Cunnamulla , Queensland
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Toasted focaccia sandwich and milkshake
Dinner: Chicken parmigiana for dinner.
Encounters: The Cunnamulla townspeople were all very friendly and interested.
Highlights: Having half a day off to catch up on washing and e-mail and rest the legs.
Lowlights: The 60km ride into Cunnamulla was supposed to be easy, but there was a reasonable headwind and it was a bit of a struggle.
Journal:
Although I frequently awoke during the night, I pretty much slept through from 7:30pm to 6:30am, perhaps an indication that I’m quite tired. I got up just before sunrise and packed up in the 1°C cold and set off at around 7:30am, anticipating an easy ride into Cunnamulla. However, I soon realised there was a headwind, and some minor undulations, which made it hard going. I had only had an apple for breakfast and not much for dinner the night before, so that may not have helped.
As always, if you just keep cranking the pedals you get there in the end, and I reached Cunnamulla at 11:00am. It was a sleepy little town with broad streets, verandahs over the footpaths, and a few stores which carried a combination of goods. There were even a few Queenslander-style houses on stilts. Like most of these outback towns, there were plenty of boarded up stores, derelict properties and bare red earth, indicating declining local economies.
I bought a paper, drink and a couple of pastries and ate them in a cafe, before finding a budget motel on the edge of town. After a shower and baggage sort out I returned to town and mailed back clothes and maps to Copa that I would no longer need. The bag felt quite heavy, so I hope I notice a difference, although I’m going to have to start carrying more water from now on which may offset the weight loss. After lunch in another café, I did a load of washing and spent two hours in the library reading e-mail and sending diary updates and pictures with some difficulty, whilst chatting with the two librarians.
I had a counter tea at a nearby pub and went to bed early. I’m a bit concerned that, having decided not to take a day off in Charleville, I now have three 200km days in succession. I can do it, but I think 160km is probably the optimal long day.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Bourke to Cunnamulla
Day: 012
Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Bourke to 60km south of Cunnamulla.
Start: Bourke
Finish: 60km south of Cunnamulla.
Daily Kilometres: 194
Total Kilometres: 1495
Weather: Cold early but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a light, mostly cross wind.
Accommodation: Camping by the road, 60km south of Cunnamulla , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muffin and biscuits
Lunch: Pie and sausage roll
Dinner: Peanut butter roll and apple for dinner.
Encounters: Saw kangaroos, feral goats and lots of very aromatic road kill.
Highlights: Completing my ride across NSW in less than five days with great weather, mostly flat roads, little traffic and dinkum outback scenery.
Lowlights: My right ankle has been quite sore, especially when I stand up on the pedals (as I do frequently to give my butt a break), and my backpack was rubbing on a particular vertebrae.
Journal:
I decided to get going early, leaving town via the nearby bakery at 6:30am, although I was unsure what my game plan was going to be for the day. It would be a very long day to Cunnamulla (~250km) or quite a short day to Barringun (136km). I again made good time through flat mostly open arid grazing land. There was virtually no traffic for the first couple of hours. I reached Barringun on the Queensland border around 1:30pm and decided to ride on another 60km and camp by the road rather than ride in the dark all the way to Cunnamulla (I probably wouldn’t have got there until after 8pm). Before continuing, I called the public library in Cunnamulla to make sure they would be open tomorrow and that they had internet access. I booked an hour from 3pm. I’ve decided that, rather than have a full day off in Charleville, I’ll have a short ride tomorrow and call my Cunnamulla day a rest stop. That will give me two days up my sleeve on my schedule. I rode until about 5:30pm and found a spot just off the road to camp. It wasn’t great, but OK, apart from the mosquitoes (no repellent!). I set up camp, had a quick dinner and went to bed soon after 7pm with the goal of getting an early start tomorrow so that I would be in Cunnamulla in mid-morning.
Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Bourke to 60km south of Cunnamulla.
Start: Bourke
Finish: 60km south of Cunnamulla.
Daily Kilometres: 194
Total Kilometres: 1495
Weather: Cold early but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a light, mostly cross wind.
Accommodation: Camping by the road, 60km south of Cunnamulla , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muffin and biscuits
Lunch: Pie and sausage roll
Dinner: Peanut butter roll and apple for dinner.
Encounters: Saw kangaroos, feral goats and lots of very aromatic road kill.
Highlights: Completing my ride across NSW in less than five days with great weather, mostly flat roads, little traffic and dinkum outback scenery.
Lowlights: My right ankle has been quite sore, especially when I stand up on the pedals (as I do frequently to give my butt a break), and my backpack was rubbing on a particular vertebrae.
Journal:
I decided to get going early, leaving town via the nearby bakery at 6:30am, although I was unsure what my game plan was going to be for the day. It would be a very long day to Cunnamulla (~250km) or quite a short day to Barringun (136km). I again made good time through flat mostly open arid grazing land. There was virtually no traffic for the first couple of hours. I reached Barringun on the Queensland border around 1:30pm and decided to ride on another 60km and camp by the road rather than ride in the dark all the way to Cunnamulla (I probably wouldn’t have got there until after 8pm). Before continuing, I called the public library in Cunnamulla to make sure they would be open tomorrow and that they had internet access. I booked an hour from 3pm. I’ve decided that, rather than have a full day off in Charleville, I’ll have a short ride tomorrow and call my Cunnamulla day a rest stop. That will give me two days up my sleeve on my schedule. I rode until about 5:30pm and found a spot just off the road to camp. It wasn’t great, but OK, apart from the mosquitoes (no repellent!). I set up camp, had a quick dinner and went to bed soon after 7pm with the goal of getting an early start tomorrow so that I would be in Cunnamulla in mid-morning.
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