Day: 035
Date: Thursday, 31 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Seisia to tip of Cape York and return.
Start: Seisia
Finish: Seisia
Daily Kilometres: 35
Total Kilometres: 4170
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with south-easterly winds.
Accommodation: Cabin at Seisia Campground , Queensland.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Bacon and egg roll
Lunch: Snacks
Dinner: Hamburger and chips for dinner.
Encounters: It seemed that many people and groups I had met in the last week converged on the tip of Cape York today. Firstly, as I passed a little souvenir shack about half-way to the Cape, the members of a tour group I had met three days ago (who must have been told a cyclist was coming by the driver of a vehicle that passed me earlier) came out to the side of the road and clapped and cheered me past. Secondly, when I finally reached the Cape, Barry and Jan, one of the couples who had offered me dinner at the Jardine River two nights ago were there to greet me. Thirdly, a couple of trail bike riders I had met a week ago in Lakefield NP were just arriving at the Cape as I left. Additionally, a number of other people around the Cape at the time came up to me and said they had seen me on the road earlier, etc., and wanted to know more about the trip. All in all, it was like a reunion of old friends and made it a very pleasant day.
Highlights: On my way riding back from the Cape , there was a great stretch of a couple of kilometres of gradually downhill narrow hard-packed red clay road which wound through an exotic leafy and cool rainforest. With no bags on the bike and the pleasure of having completed the mission in my mind, it was a fast and exhilarating descent.
Lowlights: Only that I couldn’t get my camera fixed and had to buy a disposable for the last photos of my trip.
Journal:
I slept well, in contrast to the previous night, and took my time packing up and getting some breakfast in the morning, before calling Canon to see if there was some way to unjam my digital camera. Unfortunately there was not, so I rode to the small nearby supermarket and bought a disposable camera to use for the remainder of my trip.
I then set off for the tip of Cape York , taking a little-used rough back road for the first part of the trip, before joining the main road to the tip. Actually, “main” is a bit of an exaggeration, since it was still quite corrugated and sandy in parts, and not very busy. Nearer to the Cape it narrowed as it passed through some very pretty rainforest. The total journey was 35km, but without bags on the bike, it was an easy and quite fast ride. From the end of the road there is a boardwalk through some rainforest before the path leads over a rocky headland and down to the tip where there is a sign. It was a bit of a struggle pushing the bike over the rocky trail, but I wanted to take it to the tip.
On the way to and from the tip, I met quite a number of people I had encountered on the road in the past week, and enjoyed chatting with them all.
I reached the actual tip about 11:30am and symbolically tipped my little jar of salt water from the southern tip into the sea, while one of the people I had met along the road took a picture of me with my new disposable camera.
It was a beautiful sunny and warm day. On the western side of the Cape , back from the rocky tip, was a sweeping brilliantly white sandy beach lapped by a calm and perfectly clear aquamarine sea and bordered by verdant rainforest. Offshore was a sizeable sea-going yacht that would have looked at home next to any South Pacific island. On the eastern side, the sea was swept by a brisk south-easterly wind which caused some whitecaps, and the sea was more translucent than transparent. In all directions and at all distances could be seen big and small islands, all looking exotic and enticing.
I hung around at the tip for about an hour savouring the moment and taking in the view. There was a steady stream of tourists, a number of whom were taking the opportunity to cast a line into the sea in the hope of catching something, and a story to tell. I didn’t see any fish get caught.
I then walked slowly back to the road and rode straight into Bamaga, enjoying the sense of accomplishment and completion. In Bamaga, I bought some sandals and a pair of shorts (to double the size of my casual wardrobe) and then returned to the campsite at Seisia where I dismantled my camp and moved into the basic cabin that will be my home until Monday when the cargo boat I am booked on leaves for Cairns. I will spend tomorrow cleaning some of my gear, which is all permeated with fine red dust, and visiting a library with internet access about 10km away to file the final part of my trip diary. I have booked a day trip to Thursday Island for Saturday and will take it easy on Sunday. From Cairns I am catching a train to Brisbane , which will take about a day and a half, and then a train from Brisbane to Gosford which will take a day. I will be home on Saturday evening, 9 September 2006.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Jardine River to Seisia
Day: 034
Date: Wednesday, 30 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Jardine River Ferry to Seisia.
Start: Jardine River Ferry
Finish: Seisia
Daily Kilometres: 51
Total Kilometres: 4135
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Camping at Seisia Campground , Queensland.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli bars and scroggin/gorp
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Fish, chips and salad for dinner.
Encounters: None really. Saw some Army truck learner drivers heading south towards the Jardine River ferry. It recalled memories of 35 years ago when my National Service job was leading a platoon teaching soldiers to drive trucks.
Highlights: Reaching the sealed road just before getting to Bamaga was a relief. The morning had again been hard riding on sand and corrugations, and the sealed road signalled the virtual end of such roads. The road construction crew that was staying at the same campground at the Jardine River last night have apparently just finished upgrading the road from Bamaga to the tip of Cape York.
Lowlights: My camera has malfunctioned/jammed and I can’t get it working. I tried calling Barb to see if there was anything in the Manual, but it was no help. She got a Canon Helpline number and I’ll try that tomorrow. If no success, I guess I’ll buy a disposable for the final pictures of my trip to the Cape tomorrow.
Journal:
I had trouble getting to sleep last night, maybe because the trip is almost over, or maybe because I had too much Diet Coke before going to bed (probably the latter!). I spent the sleepless time thinking about what the next adventure might be. I got up at 6am when the camp started stirring and had a leisurely pack up and breakfast, since the ferry wasn’t due to begin operating until 8am. As it turned out, the ferry had some engine problems and I didn’t get across until 8:30am.
Yet again, the road was a lot worse than I remembered and the 45km to Bamaga involved plenty of walking through sand and innumerable corrugations. The country was mostly dry undulating forests with some good views here and there. Along the way, I met the German family I had first met at Archer River several days ago who were now on their way back down the Cape .
Just before arriving in Bamaga, when I finally got some mobile phone reception, I called the campground at Seisia (on the beach 6km from Bamaga and adjacent to the jetty where I will catch the boat back to Cairns next Monday) to see if I could get a cabin. They had nothing available for tonight, but I should be OK for the remaining nights, so I said I would come and camp there tonight and move into a cabin tomorrow.
I rolled into Bamaga, literally, since there was a long downhill sealed road, about noon (3.5 hours for 45km) and found the bakery where I had a couple of pies for lunch. I then went to the store and bought some replacement sunglasses and a replacement bike lock, before riding the 6km to Seisia. I checked in, set up camp, showered, and generally lounged around for the afternoon before getting fish and chips for dinner at the local café. I’ll ride to the 35km to the tip of Cape York tomorrow, but won’t leave until I’ve had a chance to call Canon about my camera. I would like to get to the tip around noon so that it would be exactly 34 days from the moment I left the southern tip of Wilsons Promontory, but it may not work out depending on the road and the camera.
Date: Wednesday, 30 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Jardine River Ferry to Seisia.
Start: Jardine River Ferry
Finish: Seisia
Daily Kilometres: 51
Total Kilometres: 4135
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Camping at Seisia Campground , Queensland.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli bars and scroggin/gorp
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Fish, chips and salad for dinner.
Encounters: None really. Saw some Army truck learner drivers heading south towards the Jardine River ferry. It recalled memories of 35 years ago when my National Service job was leading a platoon teaching soldiers to drive trucks.
Highlights: Reaching the sealed road just before getting to Bamaga was a relief. The morning had again been hard riding on sand and corrugations, and the sealed road signalled the virtual end of such roads. The road construction crew that was staying at the same campground at the Jardine River last night have apparently just finished upgrading the road from Bamaga to the tip of Cape York.
Lowlights: My camera has malfunctioned/jammed and I can’t get it working. I tried calling Barb to see if there was anything in the Manual, but it was no help. She got a Canon Helpline number and I’ll try that tomorrow. If no success, I guess I’ll buy a disposable for the final pictures of my trip to the Cape tomorrow.
Journal:
I had trouble getting to sleep last night, maybe because the trip is almost over, or maybe because I had too much Diet Coke before going to bed (probably the latter!). I spent the sleepless time thinking about what the next adventure might be. I got up at 6am when the camp started stirring and had a leisurely pack up and breakfast, since the ferry wasn’t due to begin operating until 8am. As it turned out, the ferry had some engine problems and I didn’t get across until 8:30am.
Yet again, the road was a lot worse than I remembered and the 45km to Bamaga involved plenty of walking through sand and innumerable corrugations. The country was mostly dry undulating forests with some good views here and there. Along the way, I met the German family I had first met at Archer River several days ago who were now on their way back down the Cape .
Just before arriving in Bamaga, when I finally got some mobile phone reception, I called the campground at Seisia (on the beach 6km from Bamaga and adjacent to the jetty where I will catch the boat back to Cairns next Monday) to see if I could get a cabin. They had nothing available for tonight, but I should be OK for the remaining nights, so I said I would come and camp there tonight and move into a cabin tomorrow.
I rolled into Bamaga, literally, since there was a long downhill sealed road, about noon (3.5 hours for 45km) and found the bakery where I had a couple of pies for lunch. I then went to the store and bought some replacement sunglasses and a replacement bike lock, before riding the 6km to Seisia. I checked in, set up camp, showered, and generally lounged around for the afternoon before getting fish and chips for dinner at the local café. I’ll ride to the 35km to the tip of Cape York tomorrow, but won’t leave until I’ve had a chance to call Canon about my camera. I would like to get to the tip around noon so that it would be exactly 34 days from the moment I left the southern tip of Wilsons Promontory, but it may not work out depending on the road and the camera.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Gunshot Creek to Jardine River
Day: 033
Date: Tuesday, 29 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Gunshot Creek to Jardine River Ferry.
Start: Gunshot Creek
Finish: Jardine River Ferry
Daily Kilometres: 86
Total Kilometres: 4084
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Camping at Jardine River Ferry, Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Snacks
Dinner: Salmon, sausages and vegetables
Encounters: Two couples of similar age to me, who had passed me on the road during the day, invited me to join them for dinner. They were good company and the salmon, sausages and vegetables they gave me were a welcome alternative to the peanut butter rolls I had been planning.
Highlights: Reaching the Jardine River Ferry, which only operates between 8am and 5pm, at 4:45pm was the highlight of the day. Not so much because I wanted to catch the ferry across, which was my original intention, but because the kiosk where the ferry tickets were sold also sold cold drinks and ice-creams. I was parched after a very long day on the road and immediately bought four 600ml bottles of Diet Coke, downing one in a nanosecond, and an icecream.
Lowlights: My expectation had been that the going would be tough for the first 26km until I reached the Development Road (Northern Bypass Road) and then would be easier (but not easy) to the Jardine River Ferry. As it turned out the Development Road was nearly as tough as the OTL, with very long stretches of soft sand and plenty of huge corrugations. I had hoped the 53km would take me three hours but instead it took five. It was hot hard work and, to top it off, I was running short on water, so was rationing myself until a kind motorist stopped and asked me if I would like any water. They gave me a litre of water with ice in it!
Journal:
By the time I packed, breakfasted and filled water bottles from the creek (200+ metres away), it was about 7:45am before I got rolling. I had also spent a bit of time trying to work out what was making the strange clicking noise in my front wheel and put some air into the shocks in case that was the problem. No progress! The OTL continued as before, but was more pleasant in the early morning light and cooler temperatures and I was expecting slow progress. The countryside continued to be mostly heathland with some nice views from the higher elevations. I had intended to refill my water bottles at Sailor Creek, the last creek I would cross for the day, but was past it before I realised, so was left a bit short of water when I reached theNorthern Bypass Road at about 11:00am, which was roughly in line with my estimate – 3+hours for 24km. At that time I thought I still had a very good chance of making it to Bamaga for the night (107km) but after another hour realised that I wasn’t making much better time than I had been on the OTL. There were very long stretches of sand, often with just a few hundred metres of firmer going or corrugations in between, and I was constantly getting on and off the bike and occasionally still falling off when I misjudged sand depth. It was exhausting and hot work. The road was generally quite wide, meaning shade from the forest seldom sheltered the road. Without my sunglasses I was constantly getting grit from passing cars and the gusty wind in my eyes as well. I must have looked a grimy and exhausted sight. A few cars and minibuses passed me and gave me waves and occasionally stopped to ask if I needed anything. I took up one of the later offers, when I was down to my last litre of water, and got a litre of iced water which was delicious. The last 24km, although rough, had shallower sand which allowed me to keep moving at a better rate, and I reached the Jardine River Ferry at 4:45pm. I was still thinking of pushing on to Bamaga (45km), but the lady in the kiosk selling ferry tickets persuaded me that I would be better to stay in her campground, which had hot showers, than end up travelling in the dark on rough roads with no certain place to stay. She said I could stay for free, and also said I needn’t pay for the ferry ($88 per car!).
I set up camp and two separate groups of people came over to me and asked whether I had got a lift to the campground. They had passed me back on the road and could not believe I had made it to the campground so quickly. One couple had also seen my wheel-tracks and footprints on the OTL and were trying to work out who made them and how. It never occurred to them that someone would ride a bike along the OTL.
After I set up camp, I had a nice shower, which made me feel much better, and was then invited to join two couples for dinner. The salmon and sausages were a lot better than my three-day-old (at least) breadrolls and peanut butter so I accepted.
I will catch the first ferry in the morning and head to Bamaga for brunch. As soon as I have good phone reception, I’ll try to book a cabin on the beach at Seisia, adjacent to where my boat leaves, for the remainder of my time on the Cape . Seisia is 5km from Bamaga, but a much more desirable place to stay. I’ll plan to travel to the tip of theCape on Thursday.
Date: Tuesday, 29 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Gunshot Creek to Jardine River Ferry.
Start: Gunshot Creek
Finish: Jardine River Ferry
Daily Kilometres: 86
Total Kilometres: 4084
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Camping at Jardine River Ferry, Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Snacks
Dinner: Salmon, sausages and vegetables
Encounters: Two couples of similar age to me, who had passed me on the road during the day, invited me to join them for dinner. They were good company and the salmon, sausages and vegetables they gave me were a welcome alternative to the peanut butter rolls I had been planning.
Highlights: Reaching the Jardine River Ferry, which only operates between 8am and 5pm, at 4:45pm was the highlight of the day. Not so much because I wanted to catch the ferry across, which was my original intention, but because the kiosk where the ferry tickets were sold also sold cold drinks and ice-creams. I was parched after a very long day on the road and immediately bought four 600ml bottles of Diet Coke, downing one in a nanosecond, and an icecream.
Lowlights: My expectation had been that the going would be tough for the first 26km until I reached the Development Road (Northern Bypass Road) and then would be easier (but not easy) to the Jardine River Ferry. As it turned out the Development Road was nearly as tough as the OTL, with very long stretches of soft sand and plenty of huge corrugations. I had hoped the 53km would take me three hours but instead it took five. It was hot hard work and, to top it off, I was running short on water, so was rationing myself until a kind motorist stopped and asked me if I would like any water. They gave me a litre of water with ice in it!
Journal:
By the time I packed, breakfasted and filled water bottles from the creek (200+ metres away), it was about 7:45am before I got rolling. I had also spent a bit of time trying to work out what was making the strange clicking noise in my front wheel and put some air into the shocks in case that was the problem. No progress! The OTL continued as before, but was more pleasant in the early morning light and cooler temperatures and I was expecting slow progress. The countryside continued to be mostly heathland with some nice views from the higher elevations. I had intended to refill my water bottles at Sailor Creek, the last creek I would cross for the day, but was past it before I realised, so was left a bit short of water when I reached theNorthern Bypass Road at about 11:00am, which was roughly in line with my estimate – 3+hours for 24km. At that time I thought I still had a very good chance of making it to Bamaga for the night (107km) but after another hour realised that I wasn’t making much better time than I had been on the OTL. There were very long stretches of sand, often with just a few hundred metres of firmer going or corrugations in between, and I was constantly getting on and off the bike and occasionally still falling off when I misjudged sand depth. It was exhausting and hot work. The road was generally quite wide, meaning shade from the forest seldom sheltered the road. Without my sunglasses I was constantly getting grit from passing cars and the gusty wind in my eyes as well. I must have looked a grimy and exhausted sight. A few cars and minibuses passed me and gave me waves and occasionally stopped to ask if I needed anything. I took up one of the later offers, when I was down to my last litre of water, and got a litre of iced water which was delicious. The last 24km, although rough, had shallower sand which allowed me to keep moving at a better rate, and I reached the Jardine River Ferry at 4:45pm. I was still thinking of pushing on to Bamaga (45km), but the lady in the kiosk selling ferry tickets persuaded me that I would be better to stay in her campground, which had hot showers, than end up travelling in the dark on rough roads with no certain place to stay. She said I could stay for free, and also said I needn’t pay for the ferry ($88 per car!).
I set up camp and two separate groups of people came over to me and asked whether I had got a lift to the campground. They had passed me back on the road and could not believe I had made it to the campground so quickly. One couple had also seen my wheel-tracks and footprints on the OTL and were trying to work out who made them and how. It never occurred to them that someone would ride a bike along the OTL.
After I set up camp, I had a nice shower, which made me feel much better, and was then invited to join two couples for dinner. The salmon and sausages were a lot better than my three-day-old (at least) breadrolls and peanut butter so I accepted.
I will catch the first ferry in the morning and head to Bamaga for brunch. As soon as I have good phone reception, I’ll try to book a cabin on the beach at Seisia, adjacent to where my boat leaves, for the remainder of my time on the Cape . Seisia is 5km from Bamaga, but a much more desirable place to stay. I’ll plan to travel to the tip of theCape on Thursday.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Moreton Telegraph Station to Gunshot Creek
Day: 032
Date: Monday, 28 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Moreton Telegraph Station to Gunshot Creek, Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) Track.
Start: Moreton Telegraph Station
Finish: Gunshot Creek
Daily Kilometres: 88
Total Kilometres: 3998
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Camping at Gunshot Creek, Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) Track,Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cereal and toast
Lunch: Bacon and egg roll
Dinner: Peanut butter rolls and energy bars
Encounters: I saw some kangaroos early on and a large dingo trotted nonchalantly across the OTL just in front of me in late morning.
Highlights: Without doubt the swim/wash I had in the shallow and crystal clear Gunshot Creek at the end of the day to wash off all of the accumulated sweat, dust and sand.
Lowlights: Unfortunately, the Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) track hasn’t been as much fun as I had hoped. It is a rough unmaintained trail that is famous with 4WD drivers and trail-bikers and I was looking forward to some semi-challenging mountain bike riding. However, my memory of the trail did not include the vast stretches of sand which meant that I fell off innumerable times, had to pedal very hard where it was at all possible to ride, and spent lengthy periods manhandling my loaded bike through the sand. It took me seven hours to cover 46km.
Journal:
I left soon after 7:00am, having helped myself to cereal and toast in the guesthouse kitchen. Unfortunately, my efforts to leave quietly came to nought when I burnt the toast and set off the smoke alarm! I pedalled the 42km to the Bramwell Junction Roadhouse in about two hours and decided to have a brunch before setting out along the OTL. There was a tour bus there and I got lots of questions and was asked to pose for some photos. Later some trailbike riders arrived who I had met back at Kalpower Crossing in Lakefield NP about five days ago. They couldn’t believe I had come so far. They are still on their way to the Cape .
I left on the OTL at 10:00am and soon found myself dealing with long stretches of sand and some rough trail. At some point, the bike lock that I have always carried in a net basket at the side of my front handlebar bag, fell out without me noticing, so I have lost another piece of equipment. Later on I noticed that one of the supporting brackets on my left rear pannier had sheared off, putting great strain on the remaining bracket. This was the kind of equipment failure I had feared for the whole trip. Just as well I brought those cable ties along, and I used them to substitute for the bracket and support the other. I noticed another stud has also broken.
Further along my front wheel or bike headset, I can’t tell which, began making strange clicking noises. I can’t see anything wrong. Maybe it’s in the front suspension. One more thing telling me that the bike and body are ready for a rest.
I soon realised my target of Elliot Falls was not going to happen, and resolved to see where I was at 5:00pm and decide about where to camp at that point. I fell off another few times and wasn’t enjoying the tough riding on the sand. I was constantly getting on and off the bike and was only ever able to ride for short differences. The OTL crossed a number of creeks and each time I had to wade across meaning I had wet and grit-filled shoes for most of the day as well. The countryside changed from woodland to heathland later on. In the latter, the very tall bright orange termite mounds looked like Lilliputian castles dotting the landscape.
I finally reached Gunshot Creek, the most famous OTL creek crossing (dodged by many 4WDers), just before 5:00pm and, after some searching around found a way to get down to the creek and wade across. I had a short break, checked the map, and decided that rather than press on to the next creek crossing, 9km away, I would be better to stop in plenty of time to set up camp and have a wash. I found a nice spot, had a swim/wash, rinsed out my gear, and had some dinner. I had the place to myself and it was very pleasant and I felt rejuvenated after the wash. While trying to find an ABC station I picked up a Papua-New Guinea station so I must be getting close to the Top. I’ve decided not to do the northernmost, and less-travelled, section of the OTL and to head straight for Bamaga when I reach the Development Road after 24km tomorrow (which will probably take me 3 hours or more) and then have 107km to Bamaga which may still be tough as it has a reputation for huge stretches of corrugations. It will probably be another tough and long day.
Date: Monday, 28 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Moreton Telegraph Station to Gunshot Creek, Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) Track.
Start: Moreton Telegraph Station
Finish: Gunshot Creek
Daily Kilometres: 88
Total Kilometres: 3998
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Camping at Gunshot Creek, Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) Track,Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cereal and toast
Lunch: Bacon and egg roll
Dinner: Peanut butter rolls and energy bars
Encounters: I saw some kangaroos early on and a large dingo trotted nonchalantly across the OTL just in front of me in late morning.
Highlights: Without doubt the swim/wash I had in the shallow and crystal clear Gunshot Creek at the end of the day to wash off all of the accumulated sweat, dust and sand.
Lowlights: Unfortunately, the Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) track hasn’t been as much fun as I had hoped. It is a rough unmaintained trail that is famous with 4WD drivers and trail-bikers and I was looking forward to some semi-challenging mountain bike riding. However, my memory of the trail did not include the vast stretches of sand which meant that I fell off innumerable times, had to pedal very hard where it was at all possible to ride, and spent lengthy periods manhandling my loaded bike through the sand. It took me seven hours to cover 46km.
Journal:
I left soon after 7:00am, having helped myself to cereal and toast in the guesthouse kitchen. Unfortunately, my efforts to leave quietly came to nought when I burnt the toast and set off the smoke alarm! I pedalled the 42km to the Bramwell Junction Roadhouse in about two hours and decided to have a brunch before setting out along the OTL. There was a tour bus there and I got lots of questions and was asked to pose for some photos. Later some trailbike riders arrived who I had met back at Kalpower Crossing in Lakefield NP about five days ago. They couldn’t believe I had come so far. They are still on their way to the Cape .
I left on the OTL at 10:00am and soon found myself dealing with long stretches of sand and some rough trail. At some point, the bike lock that I have always carried in a net basket at the side of my front handlebar bag, fell out without me noticing, so I have lost another piece of equipment. Later on I noticed that one of the supporting brackets on my left rear pannier had sheared off, putting great strain on the remaining bracket. This was the kind of equipment failure I had feared for the whole trip. Just as well I brought those cable ties along, and I used them to substitute for the bracket and support the other. I noticed another stud has also broken.
Further along my front wheel or bike headset, I can’t tell which, began making strange clicking noises. I can’t see anything wrong. Maybe it’s in the front suspension. One more thing telling me that the bike and body are ready for a rest.
I soon realised my target of Elliot Falls was not going to happen, and resolved to see where I was at 5:00pm and decide about where to camp at that point. I fell off another few times and wasn’t enjoying the tough riding on the sand. I was constantly getting on and off the bike and was only ever able to ride for short differences. The OTL crossed a number of creeks and each time I had to wade across meaning I had wet and grit-filled shoes for most of the day as well. The countryside changed from woodland to heathland later on. In the latter, the very tall bright orange termite mounds looked like Lilliputian castles dotting the landscape.
I finally reached Gunshot Creek, the most famous OTL creek crossing (dodged by many 4WDers), just before 5:00pm and, after some searching around found a way to get down to the creek and wade across. I had a short break, checked the map, and decided that rather than press on to the next creek crossing, 9km away, I would be better to stop in plenty of time to set up camp and have a wash. I found a nice spot, had a swim/wash, rinsed out my gear, and had some dinner. I had the place to myself and it was very pleasant and I felt rejuvenated after the wash. While trying to find an ABC station I picked up a Papua-New Guinea station so I must be getting close to the Top. I’ve decided not to do the northernmost, and less-travelled, section of the OTL and to head straight for Bamaga when I reach the Development Road after 24km tomorrow (which will probably take me 3 hours or more) and then have 107km to Bamaga which may still be tough as it has a reputation for huge stretches of corrugations. It will probably be another tough and long day.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Coen to Moreton Telegraph Station
Day: 031
Date: Sunday, 27 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Coen to Moreton Telegraph Station.
Start: Coen
Finish: Moreton Telegraph Station
Daily Kilometres: 189
Total Kilometres: 3910
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with south-easterly winds.
Accommodation: Guest house room at Moreton Telegraph Station campground,Queensland .
Nutrition:
Brunch: Bacon, eggs and chips
Dinner: Two pies
Encounters: I saw a few kangaroos later in the day.
Highlights: The two hours I spent eating brunch, with a follow-up ice-cream, on the shady verandah at the Archer River Roadhouse were very pleasant. It was very busy with many travellers passing through. I spent some time chatting to a farmer from Beaudesert who was helping out at the Roadhouse as part of his vacation. It turned out he knew a girl I knew who had married a local farmer there. I also chatted with some aborigines who were on their way back to Bamaga from Darwin , and to some German tourists.
Lowlights: The last hour’s riding of the day was the lowlight of the trip. Originally I had not intended to ride as far as the Moreton Telegraph Station, but the road was better after Archer River and I was making good time so I decided to try for Moreton and a shower. However, the last hour was mostly in darkness and the road deteriorated into sandy corrugations for most of the way. It was very hard to keep balance with limited visibility and, at one point, I fell off twice in five metres. What made it even more surreal was that there was a controlled burn of undergrowth stretching for many kilometres along the left-hand side of the road so there were flames just off the road and an orange glow all along (which didn’t help to illuminate the track at all!). I was cursing and, to top it all off, I lost my treasured wrap-around sunglasses which had done a great job of keeping the dust out of my contact lenses for the whole trip.
Journal:
I left soon after 7:00am and had a mix of good road and bad road on another sunny day to the Archer River Roadhouse where I stopped for a relaxing brunch. Since my intention had only been to ride another ~60km and then camp, I was in no hurry to leave and enjoyed watching the passing parade and chatting to some of the people.
I left around 1:00pm and had relatively good road for the next couple of hours with a slight following wind which helped me make good time. I began to think that I could get to Moreton Telegraph Station where there was a campground if I continued at a good pace, rather than looking for a suitable creek to camp beside (since I had decided not to carry lots of water).
The plan worked well and I made good time through the partly timbered grazing land. After the Weipa turn-off there wasn’t much traffic either, so it was quite pleasant. However, with about 15km to go it was virtually dark and the road deteriorated and I did not enjoy the last hour’s riding through the sandy corrugations. I eventually reach the campground about 7:45pm and was welcomed by the owners and some of their guests, who all thought I was mad (I thought I was stupid for taking such a long break at Archer River if I was going to attempt this far). Anyway, they offered me a room in their “guesthouse” where the only other occupant was, Katie, an English backpacker who was helping out around the campground. They also heated a couple of pies for my late dinner. After eating and a shower I felt much better. Having come this far today, I think I’ll now get to Bamaga/Seisia in two days and reach the Cape on Wednesday. Tomorrow I will tackle the Old Telegraph Track, which should be fun. It would be more fun if I hadn’t stupidly lost my good sunglasses today!
Date: Sunday, 27 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Coen to Moreton Telegraph Station.
Start: Coen
Finish: Moreton Telegraph Station
Daily Kilometres: 189
Total Kilometres: 3910
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with south-easterly winds.
Accommodation: Guest house room at Moreton Telegraph Station campground,Queensland .
Nutrition:
Brunch: Bacon, eggs and chips
Dinner: Two pies
Encounters: I saw a few kangaroos later in the day.
Highlights: The two hours I spent eating brunch, with a follow-up ice-cream, on the shady verandah at the Archer River Roadhouse were very pleasant. It was very busy with many travellers passing through. I spent some time chatting to a farmer from Beaudesert who was helping out at the Roadhouse as part of his vacation. It turned out he knew a girl I knew who had married a local farmer there. I also chatted with some aborigines who were on their way back to Bamaga from Darwin , and to some German tourists.
Lowlights: The last hour’s riding of the day was the lowlight of the trip. Originally I had not intended to ride as far as the Moreton Telegraph Station, but the road was better after Archer River and I was making good time so I decided to try for Moreton and a shower. However, the last hour was mostly in darkness and the road deteriorated into sandy corrugations for most of the way. It was very hard to keep balance with limited visibility and, at one point, I fell off twice in five metres. What made it even more surreal was that there was a controlled burn of undergrowth stretching for many kilometres along the left-hand side of the road so there were flames just off the road and an orange glow all along (which didn’t help to illuminate the track at all!). I was cursing and, to top it all off, I lost my treasured wrap-around sunglasses which had done a great job of keeping the dust out of my contact lenses for the whole trip.
Journal:
I left soon after 7:00am and had a mix of good road and bad road on another sunny day to the Archer River Roadhouse where I stopped for a relaxing brunch. Since my intention had only been to ride another ~60km and then camp, I was in no hurry to leave and enjoyed watching the passing parade and chatting to some of the people.
I left around 1:00pm and had relatively good road for the next couple of hours with a slight following wind which helped me make good time. I began to think that I could get to Moreton Telegraph Station where there was a campground if I continued at a good pace, rather than looking for a suitable creek to camp beside (since I had decided not to carry lots of water).
The plan worked well and I made good time through the partly timbered grazing land. After the Weipa turn-off there wasn’t much traffic either, so it was quite pleasant. However, with about 15km to go it was virtually dark and the road deteriorated and I did not enjoy the last hour’s riding through the sandy corrugations. I eventually reach the campground about 7:45pm and was welcomed by the owners and some of their guests, who all thought I was mad (I thought I was stupid for taking such a long break at Archer River if I was going to attempt this far). Anyway, they offered me a room in their “guesthouse” where the only other occupant was, Katie, an English backpacker who was helping out around the campground. They also heated a couple of pies for my late dinner. After eating and a shower I felt much better. Having come this far today, I think I’ll now get to Bamaga/Seisia in two days and reach the Cape on Wednesday. Tomorrow I will tackle the Old Telegraph Track, which should be fun. It would be more fun if I hadn’t stupidly lost my good sunglasses today!
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Musgrave to Coen
Day: 030
Date: Saturday, 26 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Musgrave to Coen.
Start: Musgrave
Finish: Coen
Daily Kilometres: 106
Total Kilometres: 3721
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Basic cabin at Exchange Hotel, Coen , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Sausages and eggs
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Roast
Encounters: I met a couple of Irish guys travelling around Australia in the pub at Coen who had seen me near the Daintree and whose car had now broken down. We had a long chat as they do some bike-riding themselves and will probably get to the Cape about the same time.
Highlights: A relatively easy day’s riding after the trials of the previous three days. Although there were some rocky and corrugated bits, most of the road was hard-packed and smooth.
Lowlights: Nearly getting cleaned up by a 4WD that passed me on the inside. I was in the middle of the road trying to find the smoothest path when I heard a car behind me and turned to the left as I looked behind. Fortunately, I saw just in time that the 4WD was coming up on my inside and I was able to swerve the other way and avoid a collision.
Journal:
I got up at 6:30am, but had to hang around until 7:30am when the café opened before I could get breakfast. I spent the time chatting to a couple who were on their way from Weipa, after two years there, to new jobs near Mackay. They had passed a serious car accident about 150km north that I later learned had involved fatalities.
I left Musgrave soon after 8:00am and made good time northwards on a well-formed unsealed road. There was quite a bit of climbing up to the crest of the Great Divide at 270m, and then the road pretty much followed the crest for the remainder of the way to Coen. There were lots of significant ups and downs, particularly to “Dips” where creeks crossed the road, and it got quite hot on the ascents. There was water in some of the “Dips”, but not deep, and I sped through. The countryside was all undulating eucalypt forest with dry grassy undergrowth, occasionally burnt back, and some small peaks off to the side.
I arrived in Coen soon after 2:00pm after a particularly rough road for the last 10km and I’m hoping it improves on the other side of Coen when I leave tomorrow. Coen is a pretty dead dry and dusty small town, with one pub, a general store/service station and a take-away. It’s the last settlement before Bamaga near Cape York . I checked in to the hotel and was given a basic room in the “Donga”, a prefab building containing a number of bedrooms connected to another prefab containing a shared bathroom. After a shower and late lunch, I bought a few supplies and relaxed for the afternoon. I recalculated my remaining days and found that I have less distance to cover than I had thought. I should easily be able to make Bamaga/Seisia by Wednesday night and ride out and back to the Cape on Thursday, assuming all goes well.
Date: Saturday, 26 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Musgrave to Coen.
Start: Musgrave
Finish: Coen
Daily Kilometres: 106
Total Kilometres: 3721
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Basic cabin at Exchange Hotel, Coen , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Sausages and eggs
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Roast
Encounters: I met a couple of Irish guys travelling around Australia in the pub at Coen who had seen me near the Daintree and whose car had now broken down. We had a long chat as they do some bike-riding themselves and will probably get to the Cape about the same time.
Highlights: A relatively easy day’s riding after the trials of the previous three days. Although there were some rocky and corrugated bits, most of the road was hard-packed and smooth.
Lowlights: Nearly getting cleaned up by a 4WD that passed me on the inside. I was in the middle of the road trying to find the smoothest path when I heard a car behind me and turned to the left as I looked behind. Fortunately, I saw just in time that the 4WD was coming up on my inside and I was able to swerve the other way and avoid a collision.
Journal:
I got up at 6:30am, but had to hang around until 7:30am when the café opened before I could get breakfast. I spent the time chatting to a couple who were on their way from Weipa, after two years there, to new jobs near Mackay. They had passed a serious car accident about 150km north that I later learned had involved fatalities.
I left Musgrave soon after 8:00am and made good time northwards on a well-formed unsealed road. There was quite a bit of climbing up to the crest of the Great Divide at 270m, and then the road pretty much followed the crest for the remainder of the way to Coen. There were lots of significant ups and downs, particularly to “Dips” where creeks crossed the road, and it got quite hot on the ascents. There was water in some of the “Dips”, but not deep, and I sped through. The countryside was all undulating eucalypt forest with dry grassy undergrowth, occasionally burnt back, and some small peaks off to the side.
I arrived in Coen soon after 2:00pm after a particularly rough road for the last 10km and I’m hoping it improves on the other side of Coen when I leave tomorrow. Coen is a pretty dead dry and dusty small town, with one pub, a general store/service station and a take-away. It’s the last settlement before Bamaga near Cape York . I checked in to the hotel and was given a basic room in the “Donga”, a prefab building containing a number of bedrooms connected to another prefab containing a shared bathroom. After a shower and late lunch, I bought a few supplies and relaxed for the afternoon. I recalculated my remaining days and found that I have less distance to cover than I had thought. I should easily be able to make Bamaga/Seisia by Wednesday night and ride out and back to the Cape on Thursday, assuming all goes well.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Hann Crossing to Musgrave
Day: 029
Date: Friday, 25 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Hann Crossing to Musgrave.
Start: Hann Crossing
Finish: Musgrave
Daily Kilometres: 81
Total Kilometres: 3615
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Basic cabin at Musgrave Roadhouse , Queensland.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Scroggin/gorp for snacks
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Hamburger and chips
Encounters: I saw a few kangaroos early on and, one time, saw a kangaroo cross the road at great speed just in front of my followed 30 metres later by a fast-moving dingo who broke off the chase when he saw me. I also saw a few bustards, which are quite large birds of prey. At the Musgrave Roadhouse I met the runner, whose name escapes me, who was on his way back to Tasmania having just completed his charity run from the southern tip of Tasmania to Cape York . He was very humble and friendly and looked extremely fit. I think he’s in his mid-60s.
Highlights: A very relaxing afternoon spent washing, reading and drinking at the Musgrave Roadhouse with the hard trails of Lakefield National Park behind me.
Lowlights: A large group of trail-bikers (there are a lot of them up here riding to and from the Cape) came from the other direction as I neared the western end of LakefieldNational Park . So that they wouldn’t have to travel in each other’s dust, they kindly travel about a kilometre apart meaning that, for me, the dust from one trail bike has just about settled when the next arrives. There were about 20 bikes in all. They all gave me a cheery wave!
Journal:
I got up at 6:00am after a relatively good and long night’s sleep (although it had got a bit warm at one stage), and left around 7:00am. The trail, although still rough, wasn’t too bad initially and the early sunlight, cool temperatures and no traffic made riding very pleasant. There were all manner of animal tracks made in the sandy road overnight, some of which I could identify and others not. I decided I couldn’t face another bowl of muesli this morning and had snacks of scroggin/gorp at each of my breaks instead. Progress was not fast, but I was still hopeful of reaching Musgrave by early afternoon. My mood improved when I reached the Nifold plain, a vast treeless grassland punctuated with huge termite mounds. The road was hard-packed mud and my speed increased considerably. It was hard to imagine that I was only about 10km, as the crow flies, from Princess Charlotte Bay and the ocean.
I’m learning not to be too influenced, negatively or positively, by the trail going at any point, and this approach was soon justified as the trail re-entered arid forest and became very sandy. I’ve decided that sand is even worse than corrugations. In some sand, by pedalling powerfully and steering deftly, you can keep moving forward, albeit slowly. However, every so often the sand becomes too soft and if you don’t spot it quickly enough and get your feet out of the toe clips, you fall off. Not a pleasant experience when you are already sweaty and now become caked in sand. I cursed very loudly on more than one occasion when I fell off and barely escaped on others. After a while you start dismounting whenever the sand depth looks a bit ominous, but manhandling the 50kg bike through the soft sand and the constant mounting and dismounting makes you very tired.
The last 20km out of Lakefield National Park was sand most of the way, compounded by the long string of trail bikes coming from the other direction. By the time I got out of the Park, with about 35km to go, I was exhausted, even though it was only noon. Fortunately, the road from there to Musgrave was mostly wide and well-graded and I made good time in the blazing sun for the last stretch. I reached Musgrave at 2:00pm and to my transparent delight, got the last cabin they had available. A welcome shower was followed by lunch, a load of washing and a relaxing afternoon reading and rehydrating. I also called ahead to Coen, my target for tomorrow (108km) and booked a room at the hotel. It being Saturday night tomorrow, I didn’t want to leave it too late. It’s likely to be my last room until I reach the Bamaga (probably on Thursday).
The Musgrave roadhouse is a Mecca for travellers and locals, and has an airstrip in front, in addition to being at a major road junction. There is a mini tour bus with about 15 elderly tourists on their way back from the Cape, a number of people coming from, or going to, Weipa, and some local station-hands, in addition to individual 4WDs going to or coming from the Cape. Just before dinner a helicopter from a local station landed to pick up a few things.
Date: Friday, 25 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Hann Crossing to Musgrave.
Start: Hann Crossing
Finish: Musgrave
Daily Kilometres: 81
Total Kilometres: 3615
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Basic cabin at Musgrave Roadhouse , Queensland.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Scroggin/gorp for snacks
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Hamburger and chips
Encounters: I saw a few kangaroos early on and, one time, saw a kangaroo cross the road at great speed just in front of my followed 30 metres later by a fast-moving dingo who broke off the chase when he saw me. I also saw a few bustards, which are quite large birds of prey. At the Musgrave Roadhouse I met the runner, whose name escapes me, who was on his way back to Tasmania having just completed his charity run from the southern tip of Tasmania to Cape York . He was very humble and friendly and looked extremely fit. I think he’s in his mid-60s.
Highlights: A very relaxing afternoon spent washing, reading and drinking at the Musgrave Roadhouse with the hard trails of Lakefield National Park behind me.
Lowlights: A large group of trail-bikers (there are a lot of them up here riding to and from the Cape) came from the other direction as I neared the western end of LakefieldNational Park . So that they wouldn’t have to travel in each other’s dust, they kindly travel about a kilometre apart meaning that, for me, the dust from one trail bike has just about settled when the next arrives. There were about 20 bikes in all. They all gave me a cheery wave!
Journal:
I got up at 6:00am after a relatively good and long night’s sleep (although it had got a bit warm at one stage), and left around 7:00am. The trail, although still rough, wasn’t too bad initially and the early sunlight, cool temperatures and no traffic made riding very pleasant. There were all manner of animal tracks made in the sandy road overnight, some of which I could identify and others not. I decided I couldn’t face another bowl of muesli this morning and had snacks of scroggin/gorp at each of my breaks instead. Progress was not fast, but I was still hopeful of reaching Musgrave by early afternoon. My mood improved when I reached the Nifold plain, a vast treeless grassland punctuated with huge termite mounds. The road was hard-packed mud and my speed increased considerably. It was hard to imagine that I was only about 10km, as the crow flies, from Princess Charlotte Bay and the ocean.
I’m learning not to be too influenced, negatively or positively, by the trail going at any point, and this approach was soon justified as the trail re-entered arid forest and became very sandy. I’ve decided that sand is even worse than corrugations. In some sand, by pedalling powerfully and steering deftly, you can keep moving forward, albeit slowly. However, every so often the sand becomes too soft and if you don’t spot it quickly enough and get your feet out of the toe clips, you fall off. Not a pleasant experience when you are already sweaty and now become caked in sand. I cursed very loudly on more than one occasion when I fell off and barely escaped on others. After a while you start dismounting whenever the sand depth looks a bit ominous, but manhandling the 50kg bike through the soft sand and the constant mounting and dismounting makes you very tired.
The last 20km out of Lakefield National Park was sand most of the way, compounded by the long string of trail bikes coming from the other direction. By the time I got out of the Park, with about 35km to go, I was exhausted, even though it was only noon. Fortunately, the road from there to Musgrave was mostly wide and well-graded and I made good time in the blazing sun for the last stretch. I reached Musgrave at 2:00pm and to my transparent delight, got the last cabin they had available. A welcome shower was followed by lunch, a load of washing and a relaxing afternoon reading and rehydrating. I also called ahead to Coen, my target for tomorrow (108km) and booked a room at the hotel. It being Saturday night tomorrow, I didn’t want to leave it too late. It’s likely to be my last room until I reach the Bamaga (probably on Thursday).
The Musgrave roadhouse is a Mecca for travellers and locals, and has an airstrip in front, in addition to being at a major road junction. There is a mini tour bus with about 15 elderly tourists on their way back from the Cape, a number of people coming from, or going to, Weipa, and some local station-hands, in addition to individual 4WDs going to or coming from the Cape. Just before dinner a helicopter from a local station landed to pick up a few things.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Old Laura to Hann Crossing
Day: 028
Date: Thursday, 24 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Old Laura to Hann Crossing.
Start: Old Laura
Finish: Hann Crossing
Daily Kilometres: 85
Total Kilometres: 3534
Weather: Warm, partly cloudy and humid with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Hann Crossing National Park back country campground, Lakefield National Park , Queensland.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Peanut butter roll and apple
Dinner: Muesli and muesli bars
Encounters: A dingo pup on the road and a wallaby.
Highlights: Eating my dinner (bowl of muesli) sitting on a rock at sunset overlooking the deep and peaceful North Kennedy River (there’s crocs in there!).
Lowlights: I found the rough road physically very draining and began wondering if I might be sick. I stopped early.
Journal:
I packed up in the pre-dawn gloom and hit the road about 7:00am. I had hoped it might be in better condition, but I was very disappointed to again encounter almost non-stop corrugations, interspersed with sand and rocky bits. The best speed I can manage on the corrugations is about 12kph and everything, including me, is being shaken vigorously.
I stopped around 8:30am and had breakfast next to a beautiful lily and lotus covered lagoon and then continued on the bone-jarring way. At this rate, I knew I had no hope of reaching Musgrave (170km away) today. About an hour later, the road changed into baked mud which, while still rough, allowed greater speed and I once again entertained the idea of getting to Musgrave, although I could only do it if the road did not deteriorate again. At 11:30am I deviated 3km off the road to the Kalpower Crossing Campground to have an early lunch and refill my water bottles. I needed to be prepared in case I had to camp out again. The countryside is mostly flat savannah with long dry grass and a reasonable number of trees and endless castle-like two metre plus anthills and/or termite mounds. The road also frequently passed lagoons and creeks with water in them and lush vegetation surrounding.
After lunch the road deteriorated again, and I began to feel very tired. I think that using every muscle to maintain control and concentrating hard is taking its toll. I began to think that I might be better to aim for Musgrave tomorrow night and use up one of my spare days to have an earlier night, rather than push on and end up having to camp by the road. I decided to stop at the Hann Crossing campground which I reached about 3:00pm and, after a bit of looking around, found a site. I retrieved some water from the river, watching carefully for crocodiles, and had a wash and set up camp. I followed this with a bit of a walk and an early dinner of muesli, yet again. Something else would have been nice, but I didn’t bring enough bread.
I have 85km to get to Musgrave tomorrow which I should be able to manage, regardless of the road condition. If I’m lucky, and the road improves, I will be able to have an early stop and, hopefully, get a motel room (which Musgrave is supposed to have, but who knows). I went to bed soon after 7:00pm, looking forward to a long night’s sleep.
Date: Thursday, 24 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Old Laura to Hann Crossing.
Start: Old Laura
Finish: Hann Crossing
Daily Kilometres: 85
Total Kilometres: 3534
Weather: Warm, partly cloudy and humid with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Hann Crossing National Park back country campground, Lakefield National Park , Queensland.
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Peanut butter roll and apple
Dinner: Muesli and muesli bars
Encounters: A dingo pup on the road and a wallaby.
Highlights: Eating my dinner (bowl of muesli) sitting on a rock at sunset overlooking the deep and peaceful North Kennedy River (there’s crocs in there!).
Lowlights: I found the rough road physically very draining and began wondering if I might be sick. I stopped early.
Journal:
I packed up in the pre-dawn gloom and hit the road about 7:00am. I had hoped it might be in better condition, but I was very disappointed to again encounter almost non-stop corrugations, interspersed with sand and rocky bits. The best speed I can manage on the corrugations is about 12kph and everything, including me, is being shaken vigorously.
I stopped around 8:30am and had breakfast next to a beautiful lily and lotus covered lagoon and then continued on the bone-jarring way. At this rate, I knew I had no hope of reaching Musgrave (170km away) today. About an hour later, the road changed into baked mud which, while still rough, allowed greater speed and I once again entertained the idea of getting to Musgrave, although I could only do it if the road did not deteriorate again. At 11:30am I deviated 3km off the road to the Kalpower Crossing Campground to have an early lunch and refill my water bottles. I needed to be prepared in case I had to camp out again. The countryside is mostly flat savannah with long dry grass and a reasonable number of trees and endless castle-like two metre plus anthills and/or termite mounds. The road also frequently passed lagoons and creeks with water in them and lush vegetation surrounding.
After lunch the road deteriorated again, and I began to feel very tired. I think that using every muscle to maintain control and concentrating hard is taking its toll. I began to think that I might be better to aim for Musgrave tomorrow night and use up one of my spare days to have an earlier night, rather than push on and end up having to camp by the road. I decided to stop at the Hann Crossing campground which I reached about 3:00pm and, after a bit of looking around, found a site. I retrieved some water from the river, watching carefully for crocodiles, and had a wash and set up camp. I followed this with a bit of a walk and an early dinner of muesli, yet again. Something else would have been nice, but I didn’t bring enough bread.
I have 85km to get to Musgrave tomorrow which I should be able to manage, regardless of the road condition. If I’m lucky, and the road improves, I will be able to have an early stop and, hopefully, get a motel room (which Musgrave is supposed to have, but who knows). I went to bed soon after 7:00pm, looking forward to a long night’s sleep.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Cooktown to Old Laura
Day: 027
Date: Wednesday, 23 August 2006
Summary: Riding Cooktown to Old Laura.
Start: Cooktown
Finish: Old Laura
Daily Kilometres: 109
Total Kilometres: 3449
Weather: Warm, sunny and humid with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Old Laura National Park back country campground, Lakefield National Park , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: The “Big Brekkie” from a Cooktown café
Lunch: Peanut butter roll and apple
Dinner: Peanut butter roll and muesli bars
Encounters: A few kangaroos early in the day.
Highlights: None really.
Lowlights: Fell off my bike three times in soft sand, unable to get my feet out of the toe clips in time.
Journal:
The campground was awake early as all of the Variety Bash guys left well before 6:30am. I had decided to get breakfast at the nearby café when it opened at 7:00am so didn’t get up until 6:15am. After breakfast, I picked up some bread rolls at a bakery and left town about 7:50am.
The road was sealed at first but after 20km turned to gravel as it began to climb through the Great Dividing Range . The mountains aren’t that high but still tough work on a bike. I stopped for a quick morning ice-cream at a small store and then continued on. As the road climbed, its quality deteriorated and progress became slower and slower. The countryside went from lush tropical to dry arid forest as the day progressed, although there was at least a bit of water in most creeks and rivers.
Eventually I reached the other side of the mountains and crossed the Normanby River , one of several I had to wade through during the day (checking for crocs first!). I heard later a tourist had rolled their rental 4WD just after one of these crossings. After the Normanby River the road really deteriorated and was a constant sequence of corrugations, rocks and soft sand. It was also quite warm and I was getting very tired and hot. Three falls, the last of which drew blood from my right elbow and shin, did not improve my mood. In the end I decided that rather than try and press on to Kalpower Campground, which was supposed to have the best facilities, I would stop at Old Laura, which had no facilities and get going at an earlier hour tomorrow. It’s more than 160km to Musgrave, my target for tomorrow night.
I only covered 109km today, but it was hard slow work, and probably a good sample of what awaits me for the next week. Nevertheless, I only have 800km to go now, which doesn’t seem much.
Date: Wednesday, 23 August 2006
Summary: Riding Cooktown to Old Laura.
Start: Cooktown
Finish: Old Laura
Daily Kilometres: 109
Total Kilometres: 3449
Weather: Warm, sunny and humid with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Old Laura National Park back country campground, Lakefield National Park , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: The “Big Brekkie” from a Cooktown café
Lunch: Peanut butter roll and apple
Dinner: Peanut butter roll and muesli bars
Encounters: A few kangaroos early in the day.
Highlights: None really.
Lowlights: Fell off my bike three times in soft sand, unable to get my feet out of the toe clips in time.
Journal:
The campground was awake early as all of the Variety Bash guys left well before 6:30am. I had decided to get breakfast at the nearby café when it opened at 7:00am so didn’t get up until 6:15am. After breakfast, I picked up some bread rolls at a bakery and left town about 7:50am.
The road was sealed at first but after 20km turned to gravel as it began to climb through the Great Dividing Range . The mountains aren’t that high but still tough work on a bike. I stopped for a quick morning ice-cream at a small store and then continued on. As the road climbed, its quality deteriorated and progress became slower and slower. The countryside went from lush tropical to dry arid forest as the day progressed, although there was at least a bit of water in most creeks and rivers.
Eventually I reached the other side of the mountains and crossed the Normanby River , one of several I had to wade through during the day (checking for crocs first!). I heard later a tourist had rolled their rental 4WD just after one of these crossings. After the Normanby River the road really deteriorated and was a constant sequence of corrugations, rocks and soft sand. It was also quite warm and I was getting very tired and hot. Three falls, the last of which drew blood from my right elbow and shin, did not improve my mood. In the end I decided that rather than try and press on to Kalpower Campground, which was supposed to have the best facilities, I would stop at Old Laura, which had no facilities and get going at an earlier hour tomorrow. It’s more than 160km to Musgrave, my target for tomorrow night.
I only covered 109km today, but it was hard slow work, and probably a good sample of what awaits me for the next week. Nevertheless, I only have 800km to go now, which doesn’t seem much.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Cape Tribulation to Cooktown
Day: 026
Date: Tuesday, 22 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Cape Tribulation to Cooktown.
Start: Cape Tribulation
Finish: Cooktown
Daily Kilometres: 104
Total Kilometres: 3340
Weather: Warm, sunny and humid with south-easterly winds.
Accommodation: Campground in Cooktown , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Peanut butter roll and apple
Lunch: Hamburger and chips
Dinner: Quiche, salad and chips
Encounters: The Variety Club Bash, a convoy of 180 retro rally cars, were travelling the same route, turning what I expected to be a mostly solitary wilderness experience into a constant stream of blaring horns and dust. They were very supportive and friendly, but I could have done without them. I also met a German cyclist travelling southwards. He was on a trip from Perth to Melbourne around the northern coasts. We stopped and had a chat for a while.
Highlights: Negotiating the Bloomfield Track successfully. I was a little apprehensive, knowing that there were some very steep hills.
Lowlights: The Variety Club Bash participants not only spoiled my day a bit, but booked out all accommodation in Cooktown, where I had been hoping to get a motel room before my final push to the Cape .
Journal:
I left at 7:00am and enjoyed the early morning ride through the fantastic rainforest. However, I hadn’t gone far when an SUV passed me and told me that 180 Variety Club Bash cars were also travelling along the Bloomfield Track today. Great! Shortly after they began to pass me, always giving me a cheery wave and toot, but also raising plenty of dust. Around 8:30am I found a nice little perfect secluded palm-fringed beach where I stopped for some breakfast and a stroll. It was beautiful.
I then continued on and soon reached the massive climb I remembered from our previous trip up here. The road was concreted over to stop erosion, but the grade must have been about 20-25%. It was all I could do to make forward progress pushing the bike. Some entertainment was provided by one of the Variety Bash cars which, despite several attempts, could not make it up the hill and eventually had to be towed. The hill went on and on, and I made slow progress, stopping every 10 metres or so to get my breath. I finally reached the top and then had a nerve-wracking descent. With all of the weight on the bike, it is not very stable and I used the brakes a lot to keep myself at a modest controllable speed. There were several creeks that I had to wade across along the way.
At the bottom of the hill I reached the scenic Bloomfield River and crossed at the causeway (before the causeway was built, Barb and I had been stranded mid-river in our SUV when the engine stopped in deep water once, but that’s another story!). I took a break in Wujal Wujal and another shortly after at a roadhouse, letting most of the Variety Bash cars get past me, although it made me later than I had planned. At the roadhouse I spent quite a while talking to the young owner who was interested in mountain-biking and was shortly embarking on a solo 500km canoe trip down the Mitchell River. He also ran tours to the Cape . I called ahead to some accommodation in Cooktown, but everything was booked out except one campground where the owner said he would hold his last spot for me.
I continued on and made good time until the huge climb up to Helenvale. It was a real grind through the rainforest on a narrow track. I passed a few broken down Variety Club Bash cars along the way. After Helenvale the road was sealed and I made good time to Cooktown, arriving about 5:30pm and set up my tent. I had to queue for a shower, which had run out of hot water. Cooktown was full of Variety Club Bash participants, in various states of intoxication. I went for a walk around town in the twilight before getting dinner at a café adjacent to the campground. Given that the café opened at 7:00am and knowing that I would be bush-camping tomorrow night, I decided to get breakfast there before leaving in the morning and then trying to make it the 166km to Kalpower campground, the only one with facilities in the Lakefield National Park.
Date: Tuesday, 22 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Cape Tribulation to Cooktown.
Start: Cape Tribulation
Finish: Cooktown
Daily Kilometres: 104
Total Kilometres: 3340
Weather: Warm, sunny and humid with south-easterly winds.
Accommodation: Campground in Cooktown , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Peanut butter roll and apple
Lunch: Hamburger and chips
Dinner: Quiche, salad and chips
Encounters: The Variety Club Bash, a convoy of 180 retro rally cars, were travelling the same route, turning what I expected to be a mostly solitary wilderness experience into a constant stream of blaring horns and dust. They were very supportive and friendly, but I could have done without them. I also met a German cyclist travelling southwards. He was on a trip from Perth to Melbourne around the northern coasts. We stopped and had a chat for a while.
Highlights: Negotiating the Bloomfield Track successfully. I was a little apprehensive, knowing that there were some very steep hills.
Lowlights: The Variety Club Bash participants not only spoiled my day a bit, but booked out all accommodation in Cooktown, where I had been hoping to get a motel room before my final push to the Cape .
Journal:
I left at 7:00am and enjoyed the early morning ride through the fantastic rainforest. However, I hadn’t gone far when an SUV passed me and told me that 180 Variety Club Bash cars were also travelling along the Bloomfield Track today. Great! Shortly after they began to pass me, always giving me a cheery wave and toot, but also raising plenty of dust. Around 8:30am I found a nice little perfect secluded palm-fringed beach where I stopped for some breakfast and a stroll. It was beautiful.
I then continued on and soon reached the massive climb I remembered from our previous trip up here. The road was concreted over to stop erosion, but the grade must have been about 20-25%. It was all I could do to make forward progress pushing the bike. Some entertainment was provided by one of the Variety Bash cars which, despite several attempts, could not make it up the hill and eventually had to be towed. The hill went on and on, and I made slow progress, stopping every 10 metres or so to get my breath. I finally reached the top and then had a nerve-wracking descent. With all of the weight on the bike, it is not very stable and I used the brakes a lot to keep myself at a modest controllable speed. There were several creeks that I had to wade across along the way.
At the bottom of the hill I reached the scenic Bloomfield River and crossed at the causeway (before the causeway was built, Barb and I had been stranded mid-river in our SUV when the engine stopped in deep water once, but that’s another story!). I took a break in Wujal Wujal and another shortly after at a roadhouse, letting most of the Variety Bash cars get past me, although it made me later than I had planned. At the roadhouse I spent quite a while talking to the young owner who was interested in mountain-biking and was shortly embarking on a solo 500km canoe trip down the Mitchell River. He also ran tours to the Cape . I called ahead to some accommodation in Cooktown, but everything was booked out except one campground where the owner said he would hold his last spot for me.
I continued on and made good time until the huge climb up to Helenvale. It was a real grind through the rainforest on a narrow track. I passed a few broken down Variety Club Bash cars along the way. After Helenvale the road was sealed and I made good time to Cooktown, arriving about 5:30pm and set up my tent. I had to queue for a shower, which had run out of hot water. Cooktown was full of Variety Club Bash participants, in various states of intoxication. I went for a walk around town in the twilight before getting dinner at a café adjacent to the campground. Given that the café opened at 7:00am and knowing that I would be bush-camping tomorrow night, I decided to get breakfast there before leaving in the morning and then trying to make it the 166km to Kalpower campground, the only one with facilities in the Lakefield National Park.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Cairns to Cape Tribulation
Day: 025
Date: Monday, 21 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Cairns (Brinsmead) to Cape Tribulation .
Start: Cairns
Finish: Cape Tribulation
Daily Kilometres: 133
Total Kilometres: 3236
Weather: Mild and cloudy at first, then warm, sunny and humid with south-easterly winds.
Accommodation: Basic cabin at backpackers resort, Cape Tribulation , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cereal and toast
Lunch: Pie and sausage roll
Dinner: Sausages and vegetables for dinner
Encounters: In Mossman I bumped into the New Zealander who had stopped his car to have a chat with me a week ago when I was riding from Muttaburra to Hughenden. He was now on his bike (a recumbent with trailer) following a route recommended by Lonely Planet. I invited him to give me a call when he came down to the Sydney area.
Highlights: It was a day of highlights. Perhaps the best was the beautiful sunset stroll I had along the sweeping palm tree-fringed Myall Beach at Cape Tribulation, freshly showered after having completed a very satisfactory day’s riding.
Lowlights: My bike computer started playing up in the first few kilometres and, despite changing its batteries, it still only seems to be working intermittently. It’s not a great problem, although it does help a bit with navigation and time management. My right knee was quite painful for most of the day.
Journal:
I got on the road shortly before 7:00am and negotiated the early morning peak hour traffic as I headed north. I noticed my bike computer wasn’t working and changed the batteries, but it still seemed to be malfunctioning. Not a critical problem. The early part of the trip was through suburbs and then cane fields, before the road travelled along the beautiful coast with a thin strip of sandy beach against a backdrop of steep jungle-covered mountains that occasionally formed precipitous headlands. I had a nice following wind, and despite the narrow road and busy tourist traffic (minibus after minibus heading for the Daintree) and occasional sharp hills, thoroughly enjoyed the spectacle.
Near Port Douglas the road swung away from the coast to Mossman and began passing through cane fields still against the same mountain backdrop. Some of the cane was being cut and loaded into the narrow gauge rail wagons that are used for local transportation to the mills. Around this time, I actually caught a guy out training on his road bike, so I must have been travelling OK!
In Mossman I stopped for a break and bumped into the New Zealander I had met a week earlier in outback Queensland . I continued on to the Daintree River ferry stopping occasionally to have a look at some of the very pretty beaches. After the ferry the road was narrow and winding as it passed through dense tropical rainforest. Both sides of the road were a chaotic jumble of vines, leaves and trees and it was very beautiful. I had to negotiate a couple of steep mountain ranges as I continued north and resorted to walking at one point when the road became too steep. It was also quite humid and I was sweating a lot, although the breeze helped cool me off at my frequent stops to admire the views or beaches.
Around 4:00pm I reached PK’s Jungle Resort where I had earlier called to book a basic room and checked in. It is the same place where Barb, Aaron, Alicia and I had camped on our trip round Australia three years ago. After a quick shower, I went for a very pleasant walk along the nearby beach before dinner. Although it’s only 103km to Cooktown tomorrow, I’m quite apprehensive about some of the very steep hills and rough trail I know I am going to encounter, particularly for the first 35km.
Date: Monday, 21 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Cairns (Brinsmead) to Cape Tribulation .
Start: Cairns
Finish: Cape Tribulation
Daily Kilometres: 133
Total Kilometres: 3236
Weather: Mild and cloudy at first, then warm, sunny and humid with south-easterly winds.
Accommodation: Basic cabin at backpackers resort, Cape Tribulation , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Cereal and toast
Lunch: Pie and sausage roll
Dinner: Sausages and vegetables for dinner
Encounters: In Mossman I bumped into the New Zealander who had stopped his car to have a chat with me a week ago when I was riding from Muttaburra to Hughenden. He was now on his bike (a recumbent with trailer) following a route recommended by Lonely Planet. I invited him to give me a call when he came down to the Sydney area.
Highlights: It was a day of highlights. Perhaps the best was the beautiful sunset stroll I had along the sweeping palm tree-fringed Myall Beach at Cape Tribulation, freshly showered after having completed a very satisfactory day’s riding.
Lowlights: My bike computer started playing up in the first few kilometres and, despite changing its batteries, it still only seems to be working intermittently. It’s not a great problem, although it does help a bit with navigation and time management. My right knee was quite painful for most of the day.
Journal:
I got on the road shortly before 7:00am and negotiated the early morning peak hour traffic as I headed north. I noticed my bike computer wasn’t working and changed the batteries, but it still seemed to be malfunctioning. Not a critical problem. The early part of the trip was through suburbs and then cane fields, before the road travelled along the beautiful coast with a thin strip of sandy beach against a backdrop of steep jungle-covered mountains that occasionally formed precipitous headlands. I had a nice following wind, and despite the narrow road and busy tourist traffic (minibus after minibus heading for the Daintree) and occasional sharp hills, thoroughly enjoyed the spectacle.
Near Port Douglas the road swung away from the coast to Mossman and began passing through cane fields still against the same mountain backdrop. Some of the cane was being cut and loaded into the narrow gauge rail wagons that are used for local transportation to the mills. Around this time, I actually caught a guy out training on his road bike, so I must have been travelling OK!
In Mossman I stopped for a break and bumped into the New Zealander I had met a week earlier in outback Queensland . I continued on to the Daintree River ferry stopping occasionally to have a look at some of the very pretty beaches. After the ferry the road was narrow and winding as it passed through dense tropical rainforest. Both sides of the road were a chaotic jumble of vines, leaves and trees and it was very beautiful. I had to negotiate a couple of steep mountain ranges as I continued north and resorted to walking at one point when the road became too steep. It was also quite humid and I was sweating a lot, although the breeze helped cool me off at my frequent stops to admire the views or beaches.
Around 4:00pm I reached PK’s Jungle Resort where I had earlier called to book a basic room and checked in. It is the same place where Barb, Aaron, Alicia and I had camped on our trip round Australia three years ago. After a quick shower, I went for a very pleasant walk along the nearby beach before dinner. Although it’s only 103km to Cooktown tomorrow, I’m quite apprehensive about some of the very steep hills and rough trail I know I am going to encounter, particularly for the first 35km.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Cairns
Day: 024
Date: Sunday, 20 August 2006
Summary: Rest day.
Start: Cairns
Finish: Cairns
Daily Kilometres: 0
Total Kilometres: 3103
Weather:
Accommodation: Staying with cousin, Phil, and his wife, Denise, in Brinsmead, a suburb of Cairns , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Encounters:
Highlights:
Lowlights:
Journal:
I spent the day relaxing, catching up on family news, purchasing a few items and, with Phil’s help, working out how to add a 5 litre water container to my carrier.
Date: Sunday, 20 August 2006
Summary: Rest day.
Start: Cairns
Finish: Cairns
Daily Kilometres: 0
Total Kilometres: 3103
Weather:
Accommodation: Staying with cousin, Phil, and his wife, Denise, in Brinsmead, a suburb of Cairns , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Encounters:
Highlights:
Lowlights:
Journal:
I spent the day relaxing, catching up on family news, purchasing a few items and, with Phil’s help, working out how to add a 5 litre water container to my carrier.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Ravenshoe to Cairns
Day: 023
Date: Saturday, 19 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Ravenshoe to Cairns (Brinsmead).
Start: Ravenshoe
Finish: Cairns (Brinsmead)
Daily Kilometres: 140
Total Kilometres: 3103
Weather: Cool and cloudy in the morning and warm and sunny for the afternoon with south-easterly winds.
Accommodation: Staying with cousin, Phil, and his wife, Denise, in Brinsmead, a suburb of Cairns ,Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Pastries
Lunch: Two pies and a milkshake
Dinner: Barbecue
Encounters: There was the drunk who staggered out of the pub in Gordonvale while I was having lunch outside of the adjacent bakery in my biking gear who thought I was there (and dressed for) the annual race up the Pyramid, a nearby mountain, scheduled for that day.
Highlights: Firstly, the ride across the Atherton Tableland was very enjoyable (apart from the hills). The road wound around through little rural valleys with dairy farms and occasional plantations punctuated with patches of dense tropical rainforest, occasionally climbing over high ridges that gave spectacular views to the surrounding high mountains. Secondly, arriving at the coast again was a major milestone in my trip.
Lowlights: There were some long and tough hills as I crossed the Atherton Tableland, and my quads and right knee were very tired/sore by the time I got to the final descent. Also, sometime in the first hour, my groundsheet, which I strap on top of my panniers, somehow slipped out without me noticing and was lost. Not a critical piece of equipment, but I’ll try and get a replacement in Cairns .
Journal:
I got up at 6:30am and was about to leave at 7:00am when I got a phone call from Aaron from the US. It was the first time I had spoken to him in a month, so it was a welcome start to the day to hear about how his Gap Year travels are going and that he is enjoying himself. He flies out to Europe tomorrow.
There were several choices for routes across the Atherton Tableland to Cairns and I opted for what seemed to be the shortest, which also used relatively minor roads. It proved to be a good choice, traffic-wise and scenery-wise, particularly for the first 30km when I had the narrow winding and steeply undulating road almost to myself. The hills were tough but the scenery was a stark and welcome contrast to the last few weeks with verdant dairy farms and lush rainforest. It reminded me a bit of the Strezlecki Ranges I had crossed back in Victoria at the start of the trip.
At Malanda, a popular tourist town, which was buzzing on a market day Saturday morning, I found a bakery for a late breakfast at around 10:30am and ate a couple of pastries, read the Saturday paper and watched the world go by, although there was a coolish wind. I then continued on, up some more massive hills, which I don’t think I could have ridden up early in the trip, to the Gillies Range , which marked the crest of the Great Dividing Range . Several people’s ears had pricked up when I said I was going this route, which apparently has a long and dangerous descent. The Gillies Range was crested with beautiful tropical rainforest and, although the road was very winding, it was quite easy to ride (it would have been slow and tedious in a car), and there wasn’t too much traffic. Finally, the long 16km descent began to the coastal plains and I barely touched the pedals the whole way. It was great! The road wasn’t so steep that I had to use the brakes excessively and most of the time I just rolled along at about 30-35km looking at the fabulous scenery below which included sugar cane and grass farms on the flats and lushly forested mountains all around. It also got noticeably warmer on the descent and for the first time in the day I started to warm up.
Once I reached the bottom I pedalled to Gordonvale, an old sugar town, and found some lunch, before riding the last 23km to Cairns in warm weather with a much-appreciated strong tailwind. The journey was capped off by finding a radio station I could listen to which was broadcasting theGeelong football game.
As I rode into Cairns I checked a couple of camping stores I needed to buy a few things, but they were all closed. I had some time to spare, so rode into the very touristy city centre and walked around the shops and beach area for a while and enjoyed a thick-shake at a café.
Then I rode about 12km out to where my cousin, Phil, and wife, Denise, and family live at Brinsmead and received a warm welcome. I plan to have a day off tomorrow to rest up, catch up with the relatives, and purchase some food and small bits of gear to see me through the last 10-11 days of the trip, which will probably prove to be the most challenging, logistics-wise.
Date: Saturday, 19 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Ravenshoe to Cairns (Brinsmead).
Start: Ravenshoe
Finish: Cairns (Brinsmead)
Daily Kilometres: 140
Total Kilometres: 3103
Weather: Cool and cloudy in the morning and warm and sunny for the afternoon with south-easterly winds.
Accommodation: Staying with cousin, Phil, and his wife, Denise, in Brinsmead, a suburb of Cairns ,Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Pastries
Lunch: Two pies and a milkshake
Dinner: Barbecue
Encounters: There was the drunk who staggered out of the pub in Gordonvale while I was having lunch outside of the adjacent bakery in my biking gear who thought I was there (and dressed for) the annual race up the Pyramid, a nearby mountain, scheduled for that day.
Highlights: Firstly, the ride across the Atherton Tableland was very enjoyable (apart from the hills). The road wound around through little rural valleys with dairy farms and occasional plantations punctuated with patches of dense tropical rainforest, occasionally climbing over high ridges that gave spectacular views to the surrounding high mountains. Secondly, arriving at the coast again was a major milestone in my trip.
Lowlights: There were some long and tough hills as I crossed the Atherton Tableland, and my quads and right knee were very tired/sore by the time I got to the final descent. Also, sometime in the first hour, my groundsheet, which I strap on top of my panniers, somehow slipped out without me noticing and was lost. Not a critical piece of equipment, but I’ll try and get a replacement in Cairns .
Journal:
I got up at 6:30am and was about to leave at 7:00am when I got a phone call from Aaron from the US. It was the first time I had spoken to him in a month, so it was a welcome start to the day to hear about how his Gap Year travels are going and that he is enjoying himself. He flies out to Europe tomorrow.
There were several choices for routes across the Atherton Tableland to Cairns and I opted for what seemed to be the shortest, which also used relatively minor roads. It proved to be a good choice, traffic-wise and scenery-wise, particularly for the first 30km when I had the narrow winding and steeply undulating road almost to myself. The hills were tough but the scenery was a stark and welcome contrast to the last few weeks with verdant dairy farms and lush rainforest. It reminded me a bit of the Strezlecki Ranges I had crossed back in Victoria at the start of the trip.
At Malanda, a popular tourist town, which was buzzing on a market day Saturday morning, I found a bakery for a late breakfast at around 10:30am and ate a couple of pastries, read the Saturday paper and watched the world go by, although there was a coolish wind. I then continued on, up some more massive hills, which I don’t think I could have ridden up early in the trip, to the Gillies Range , which marked the crest of the Great Dividing Range . Several people’s ears had pricked up when I said I was going this route, which apparently has a long and dangerous descent. The Gillies Range was crested with beautiful tropical rainforest and, although the road was very winding, it was quite easy to ride (it would have been slow and tedious in a car), and there wasn’t too much traffic. Finally, the long 16km descent began to the coastal plains and I barely touched the pedals the whole way. It was great! The road wasn’t so steep that I had to use the brakes excessively and most of the time I just rolled along at about 30-35km looking at the fabulous scenery below which included sugar cane and grass farms on the flats and lushly forested mountains all around. It also got noticeably warmer on the descent and for the first time in the day I started to warm up.
Once I reached the bottom I pedalled to Gordonvale, an old sugar town, and found some lunch, before riding the last 23km to Cairns in warm weather with a much-appreciated strong tailwind. The journey was capped off by finding a radio station I could listen to which was broadcasting theGeelong football game.
As I rode into Cairns I checked a couple of camping stores I needed to buy a few things, but they were all closed. I had some time to spare, so rode into the very touristy city centre and walked around the shops and beach area for a while and enjoyed a thick-shake at a café.
Then I rode about 12km out to where my cousin, Phil, and wife, Denise, and family live at Brinsmead and received a warm welcome. I plan to have a day off tomorrow to rest up, catch up with the relatives, and purchase some food and small bits of gear to see me through the last 10-11 days of the trip, which will probably prove to be the most challenging, logistics-wise.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - The Lynd Junction to Ravenshoe
Day: 022
Date: Friday, 18 August 2006
Summary: Riding from The Lynd Junction to Ravenshoe.
Start: The Lynd Junction
Finish: Ravenshoe
Daily Kilometres: 201
Total Kilometres: 2963
Weather: Cool and foggy early but warm to hot and partly cloudy for the rest of the day with easterly (head) winds.
Accommodation: Motel in Ravenshoe , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Peanut butter roll
Lunch: Pie, pastie and milkshake
Dinner: Chicken stir fry for dinner.
Encounters: None really.
Highlights: Passing through the recent volcanic area near Undarra National Park , with the extinct volcanic cones all around and the black volcanic rock in abundance (the Byrnes’ family visited Undarra in 2003 and saw the fantastic lava tubes and climbed some of the extinct cones).
Lowlights: The road, which was generally just a strip of bitumen wide enough for one vehicle, was busy with tourists and road-trains today. This meant that I was always having to dive off onto the gravel verge and constantly getting sprayed with dust and gravel.
Journal:
I got up at 4:30am after left at 5:00am in the hope of getting a good early run with minimal traffic and wind. It was cooler than I expected and it got to the point where my right hand, which has been experiencing some numbness, was incapable of changing gears using my twist grip. I had to reach across and chane gears with my left hand. As the sun rose, the dawn was made more spectacular by and eerie fog which extended across the road in parts and made the trees ghost-like. Progress wasn’t as fast as I had hoped but I couldn’t work out whether it was the cold or maybe the road was gradually climbing. I knew that during the course of the day I would be climbing up onto the Atherton Tableland.
By 8:00am the road had started to become quite busy with a lot of road trains carrying ore of some description and many tourists. I was constantly getting off the narrow strip of bitumen onto the gravel verge to avoid traffic coming from either direction, although I couldn’t always hear the traffic from behind until it was almost on to me. (Someone later told me that touring cyclists hate this piece of road and I can understand why.)
Unfortunately, the bad traffic conditions were a distraction from the marvellous volcanic area scenery. Extinct cones could be seen in various directions and black volcanic rock was all around.
Later in the day, the road began climbing onto the Atherton Tableland. It would have been good if it was a steady climb but, of course, it wasn’t. It was a constant series of ups and downs with each succeeding “up” a bit longer than the preceding “down”. I could feel my quads using every last bit of the strength they have acquired in the last three weeks.
Finally I reached Ravenshoe, the highest town in Queensland (believe it or not), at 6:00pm after a very long day (yet again the map distance underestimated the true distance as marked by road signs and measured on my odometer). I was lucky to get the last motel room in town and felt pleased with the kilometres covered and metres ascended for the day in difficult conditions. I should have an easy run into Cairns tomorrow and a day off on Sunday staying with my cousin, Phil and his family.
Date: Friday, 18 August 2006
Summary: Riding from The Lynd Junction to Ravenshoe.
Start: The Lynd Junction
Finish: Ravenshoe
Daily Kilometres: 201
Total Kilometres: 2963
Weather: Cool and foggy early but warm to hot and partly cloudy for the rest of the day with easterly (head) winds.
Accommodation: Motel in Ravenshoe , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Peanut butter roll
Lunch: Pie, pastie and milkshake
Dinner: Chicken stir fry for dinner.
Encounters: None really.
Highlights: Passing through the recent volcanic area near Undarra National Park , with the extinct volcanic cones all around and the black volcanic rock in abundance (the Byrnes’ family visited Undarra in 2003 and saw the fantastic lava tubes and climbed some of the extinct cones).
Lowlights: The road, which was generally just a strip of bitumen wide enough for one vehicle, was busy with tourists and road-trains today. This meant that I was always having to dive off onto the gravel verge and constantly getting sprayed with dust and gravel.
Journal:
I got up at 4:30am after left at 5:00am in the hope of getting a good early run with minimal traffic and wind. It was cooler than I expected and it got to the point where my right hand, which has been experiencing some numbness, was incapable of changing gears using my twist grip. I had to reach across and chane gears with my left hand. As the sun rose, the dawn was made more spectacular by and eerie fog which extended across the road in parts and made the trees ghost-like. Progress wasn’t as fast as I had hoped but I couldn’t work out whether it was the cold or maybe the road was gradually climbing. I knew that during the course of the day I would be climbing up onto the Atherton Tableland.
By 8:00am the road had started to become quite busy with a lot of road trains carrying ore of some description and many tourists. I was constantly getting off the narrow strip of bitumen onto the gravel verge to avoid traffic coming from either direction, although I couldn’t always hear the traffic from behind until it was almost on to me. (Someone later told me that touring cyclists hate this piece of road and I can understand why.)
Unfortunately, the bad traffic conditions were a distraction from the marvellous volcanic area scenery. Extinct cones could be seen in various directions and black volcanic rock was all around.
Later in the day, the road began climbing onto the Atherton Tableland. It would have been good if it was a steady climb but, of course, it wasn’t. It was a constant series of ups and downs with each succeeding “up” a bit longer than the preceding “down”. I could feel my quads using every last bit of the strength they have acquired in the last three weeks.
Finally I reached Ravenshoe, the highest town in Queensland (believe it or not), at 6:00pm after a very long day (yet again the map distance underestimated the true distance as marked by road signs and measured on my odometer). I was lucky to get the last motel room in town and felt pleased with the kilometres covered and metres ascended for the day in difficult conditions. I should have an easy run into Cairns tomorrow and a day off on Sunday staying with my cousin, Phil and his family.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - 138km north of Hughenden to The Lynd Junction
Day: 021
Date: Thursday, 17 August 2006
Summary: Riding from 138km north of Hughenden to The Lynd Junction.
Start: 138km north of Hughenden
Finish: The Lynd Junction
Daily Kilometres: 106
Total Kilometres: 2762
Weather: Mild early but warm to hot and partly cloudy for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Room at the Oasis Roadhouse, The Lynd Junction, Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli and apple
Lunch: Peanut butter roll
Dinner: Sausages, eggs and chips
Encounters: Saw a large herd of wild hogs cross the road in front of me. There must have been about 20 babies in the group. When I got to the point where they had crossed the road they were still rooting around in the vegetation at the side of the road. As I passed, one of the adults spotted me and started chasing me. Thanks to a huge surge of adrenalin I cranked up the pace and the hog stopped chasing after 20 metres.
Highlights: I was very happy to find that the Oasis Roadhouse was open and had accommodation when I finally reached it.
Lowlights: I fear the very rough roads are taking their toll on my gear. The bike is going OK but a plastic bolt on one of the panniers has broken and I discovered a screw on the same pannier which was about to come free. Also, the map kilometres were about 20km short for this section, meaning I had to ride 20km further than expected.
Journal:
I got up at 6:30am after a fitful sleep (there was an uncomfortable bump under the floor of the tent) on a windy night. By the time I packed up and left it was 8:45am. The road conditions were tough with patches of soft red sand, chewed up by road-trains, alternating with corrugations, and just plain rocky roads. I was glad I had bought the premium tyres for this trip, because they are taking some punishment, and I haven’t even had to put any air into them so far. However, the bike, gear, and me are getting very shaken up. To offset the tough riding conditions, the scenery was attractive timbered razing land with small mountains here and there, and some pretty streams. The road was undulating and was forever dipping down into floodways. By the time the afternoon came around these constant small climbs were beginning to take their toll and I was feeling very tired. I think the extra concentration required to ride on the rough road is also wearing me out. From originally thinking I might get a bit past The Lynd Junction, I began to hope that the roadhouse there would have accommodation. The long afternoon wasn’t helped by the fact that the map underestimated the distance by about 20km (which is a lot when you are tired!).
I finally arrived at the roadhouse, which seemed to be run by two women, and they did have basic rooms and let me have one. I must have looked quite a sight, covered with red dust and sweat. I had a welcome shower and checked over my bike and gear for any problems before having an early dinner. At one point a helicopter flew in to pick up a few things. This place is very remote. I might try a very early start tomorrow and see if I can get to Ravenshoe (201km) so that I have a shorter day into Cairns on Saturday. The road is sealed from here to Cairns .
Date: Thursday, 17 August 2006
Summary: Riding from 138km north of Hughenden to The Lynd Junction.
Start: 138km north of Hughenden
Finish: The Lynd Junction
Daily Kilometres: 106
Total Kilometres: 2762
Weather: Mild early but warm to hot and partly cloudy for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Room at the Oasis Roadhouse, The Lynd Junction, Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli and apple
Lunch: Peanut butter roll
Dinner: Sausages, eggs and chips
Encounters: Saw a large herd of wild hogs cross the road in front of me. There must have been about 20 babies in the group. When I got to the point where they had crossed the road they were still rooting around in the vegetation at the side of the road. As I passed, one of the adults spotted me and started chasing me. Thanks to a huge surge of adrenalin I cranked up the pace and the hog stopped chasing after 20 metres.
Highlights: I was very happy to find that the Oasis Roadhouse was open and had accommodation when I finally reached it.
Lowlights: I fear the very rough roads are taking their toll on my gear. The bike is going OK but a plastic bolt on one of the panniers has broken and I discovered a screw on the same pannier which was about to come free. Also, the map kilometres were about 20km short for this section, meaning I had to ride 20km further than expected.
Journal:
I got up at 6:30am after a fitful sleep (there was an uncomfortable bump under the floor of the tent) on a windy night. By the time I packed up and left it was 8:45am. The road conditions were tough with patches of soft red sand, chewed up by road-trains, alternating with corrugations, and just plain rocky roads. I was glad I had bought the premium tyres for this trip, because they are taking some punishment, and I haven’t even had to put any air into them so far. However, the bike, gear, and me are getting very shaken up. To offset the tough riding conditions, the scenery was attractive timbered razing land with small mountains here and there, and some pretty streams. The road was undulating and was forever dipping down into floodways. By the time the afternoon came around these constant small climbs were beginning to take their toll and I was feeling very tired. I think the extra concentration required to ride on the rough road is also wearing me out. From originally thinking I might get a bit past The Lynd Junction, I began to hope that the roadhouse there would have accommodation. The long afternoon wasn’t helped by the fact that the map underestimated the distance by about 20km (which is a lot when you are tired!).
I finally arrived at the roadhouse, which seemed to be run by two women, and they did have basic rooms and let me have one. I must have looked quite a sight, covered with red dust and sweat. I had a welcome shower and checked over my bike and gear for any problems before having an early dinner. At one point a helicopter flew in to pick up a few things. This place is very remote. I might try a very early start tomorrow and see if I can get to Ravenshoe (201km) so that I have a shorter day into Cairns on Saturday. The road is sealed from here to Cairns .
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Hughenden to 138km north
Day: 020
Date: Wednesday, 16 August 2006
Summary: Riding 138km north from Hughenden on the road to The Lynd Junction.
Start: Hughenden
Finish: 138km north of Hughenden
Daily Kilometres: 138
Total Kilometres: 2656
Weather: Mild early but warm to hot and sunny for the rest of the day with north-east wind.
Accommodation: Camping off road between Hughenden and The Lynd Junction, Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Peanut butter roll
Dinner: Peanut butter roll, gorp and muesli bar
Encounters: Saw a few kangaroos and the first brolgas of the trip. Also saw the first big anthills of the trip, a sure sign of the tropics.
Highlights: Porcupine Gorge was well worth a look and I also remember one very pleasant break sitting on some rocks by the side of the road at the top of a hill surveying the sun-soaked Australian countryside with some handsome white-trunked gums nearby and some craggy rocky outcrops in the near distance. Before going to bed, I spent about 20 minutes just looking at the fabulous night sky. With no ambient light and no moon, the Milky Way was brilliant and you could see a myriad of stars in all directions. With just a few bush night sounds and no other noise, it was just perfect.
Lowlights: I had quite a few low-lights today. Firstly, I had decided to get a cooked breakfast before leaving town but couldn’t find an open café, so left without it. Secondly, even though the first 25km was on sealed roads, a strong headwind made it very hard work and sometimes my speed was barely above 10kph. Thirdly, later in the day on the rough road I began to strike the first long sandy sections and managed to fall off twice in the space of 100 metres at one point and had a number of other near misses.
Journal:
I didn’t get up until 6:30am and left around 7:15am, planning to find a cooked breakfast on the way out of town. However, despite visiting a couple of possible cafes, I found none open, so called into the bakery to pick up some breadrolls and then left. As soon as I got out of town the wind sprang up strongly and it was very hard work for the first few hours. In fact, it was hard riding all day and I started stopping every 10km for a break instead of the usual 20km. The road soon became gravel and dirt and varied from very easy to very difficult. I met a few road-trains and it is obvious they cut up the unsealed roads more than other traffic. The terrain was also getting quite hilly and the road seemed to be gradually climbing which added to my woes.
During the day I encountered a number of tourists and several of them took my photos and one lady even asked me to stop while she changed her camera battery!
I detoured 2km from the main road to a look-out over Porcupine Gorge around lunch time and enjoyed the spectacular view up the sheer-sided gorge with a stream at the bottom. There was a picnic table at the lookout where I had lunch and chatted to some grey nomads sharing the same table.
After Porcupine Gorge there was less traffic on the road and I had long periods to myself. The countryside was generally forest with lots of Brahmin cattle grazing all the way along and a few waterholes.
Towards the end of the day the road became quite cut up and sandy in sections and I fell off a couple of times. It was often very hard to judge how deep the sand was and, with the heavy weight on my handlebars, it is very difficult to correct once the front wheel goes off track. No doubt I will strike a lot more of this as I head north.
Around 5:45pm, as the sun set, I began looking for somewhere to camp. I hadn’t quite gone as far as hoped today, but the going had been hard and I had started late, so I’m not too fussed. I found a nice spot off the road, washed, set up camp, and ate, before listening to the Kuwait vs Australia soccer match on the radio whilst getting an early night.
Date: Wednesday, 16 August 2006
Summary: Riding 138km north from Hughenden on the road to The Lynd Junction.
Start: Hughenden
Finish: 138km north of Hughenden
Daily Kilometres: 138
Total Kilometres: 2656
Weather: Mild early but warm to hot and sunny for the rest of the day with north-east wind.
Accommodation: Camping off road between Hughenden and The Lynd Junction, Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Peanut butter roll
Dinner: Peanut butter roll, gorp and muesli bar
Encounters: Saw a few kangaroos and the first brolgas of the trip. Also saw the first big anthills of the trip, a sure sign of the tropics.
Highlights: Porcupine Gorge was well worth a look and I also remember one very pleasant break sitting on some rocks by the side of the road at the top of a hill surveying the sun-soaked Australian countryside with some handsome white-trunked gums nearby and some craggy rocky outcrops in the near distance. Before going to bed, I spent about 20 minutes just looking at the fabulous night sky. With no ambient light and no moon, the Milky Way was brilliant and you could see a myriad of stars in all directions. With just a few bush night sounds and no other noise, it was just perfect.
Lowlights: I had quite a few low-lights today. Firstly, I had decided to get a cooked breakfast before leaving town but couldn’t find an open café, so left without it. Secondly, even though the first 25km was on sealed roads, a strong headwind made it very hard work and sometimes my speed was barely above 10kph. Thirdly, later in the day on the rough road I began to strike the first long sandy sections and managed to fall off twice in the space of 100 metres at one point and had a number of other near misses.
Journal:
I didn’t get up until 6:30am and left around 7:15am, planning to find a cooked breakfast on the way out of town. However, despite visiting a couple of possible cafes, I found none open, so called into the bakery to pick up some breadrolls and then left. As soon as I got out of town the wind sprang up strongly and it was very hard work for the first few hours. In fact, it was hard riding all day and I started stopping every 10km for a break instead of the usual 20km. The road soon became gravel and dirt and varied from very easy to very difficult. I met a few road-trains and it is obvious they cut up the unsealed roads more than other traffic. The terrain was also getting quite hilly and the road seemed to be gradually climbing which added to my woes.
During the day I encountered a number of tourists and several of them took my photos and one lady even asked me to stop while she changed her camera battery!
I detoured 2km from the main road to a look-out over Porcupine Gorge around lunch time and enjoyed the spectacular view up the sheer-sided gorge with a stream at the bottom. There was a picnic table at the lookout where I had lunch and chatted to some grey nomads sharing the same table.
After Porcupine Gorge there was less traffic on the road and I had long periods to myself. The countryside was generally forest with lots of Brahmin cattle grazing all the way along and a few waterholes.
Towards the end of the day the road became quite cut up and sandy in sections and I fell off a couple of times. It was often very hard to judge how deep the sand was and, with the heavy weight on my handlebars, it is very difficult to correct once the front wheel goes off track. No doubt I will strike a lot more of this as I head north.
Around 5:45pm, as the sun set, I began looking for somewhere to camp. I hadn’t quite gone as far as hoped today, but the going had been hard and I had started late, so I’m not too fussed. I found a nice spot off the road, washed, set up camp, and ate, before listening to the Kuwait vs Australia soccer match on the radio whilst getting an early night.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Hughenden
Day: 019
Date: Tuesday, 15 August 2006
Summary: Rest day.
Start: Hughenden
Finish: Hughenden
Daily Kilometres: 0
Total Kilometres: 2518
Weather: Mild early but warm to hot and sunny for the rest of the day with north-east wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Hughenden , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Pastries
Lunch: Quiche and salad
Dinner: Pasta and a milkshake for dinner.
Encounters: None in particular, but the locals were all very friendly.
Highlights: Spending a day wandering around with nothing much to do.
Lowlights: Getting a social phone call from Kev Andrews at 6:00am on the one day on the trip that I had planned to sleep in!
Journal:
Most of the day was spent wandering around the central part of Hughenden soaking up the atmosphere of a remote outback town and attending to a few chores. Unfortunately, one of the chores turned out to be a load of hand-washing since there is no Laundromat in town. However, apart from that I found an internet centre providing cheap broadband access and the necessary food stores. One of the pubs was highly recommended by the locals and I ended up eating both lunch and dinner there on their very pleasant verandah opening on to the sleepy main street.
The day was quite hot and a strong north-east wind was blowing in the morning which made me glad I was not riding although, no doubt, the weather will be the same again tomorrow.
I bought a 2.4 litre fruit juice in a container I will fill with water to see me through the next few days. By my calculation, I will see only one roadhouse, and no other water, shops, accommodation, etc., in the next three days. I didn’t sleep well last night and I’ve had a bit of a headache most of the day, possibly because I was a bit dehydrated yesterday. I’ll make sure I get a good sleep tonight rather than make a pre-dawn start.
Date: Tuesday, 15 August 2006
Summary: Rest day.
Start: Hughenden
Finish: Hughenden
Daily Kilometres: 0
Total Kilometres: 2518
Weather: Mild early but warm to hot and sunny for the rest of the day with north-east wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Hughenden , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Pastries
Lunch: Quiche and salad
Dinner: Pasta and a milkshake for dinner.
Encounters: None in particular, but the locals were all very friendly.
Highlights: Spending a day wandering around with nothing much to do.
Lowlights: Getting a social phone call from Kev Andrews at 6:00am on the one day on the trip that I had planned to sleep in!
Journal:
Most of the day was spent wandering around the central part of Hughenden soaking up the atmosphere of a remote outback town and attending to a few chores. Unfortunately, one of the chores turned out to be a load of hand-washing since there is no Laundromat in town. However, apart from that I found an internet centre providing cheap broadband access and the necessary food stores. One of the pubs was highly recommended by the locals and I ended up eating both lunch and dinner there on their very pleasant verandah opening on to the sleepy main street.
The day was quite hot and a strong north-east wind was blowing in the morning which made me glad I was not riding although, no doubt, the weather will be the same again tomorrow.
I bought a 2.4 litre fruit juice in a container I will fill with water to see me through the next few days. By my calculation, I will see only one roadhouse, and no other water, shops, accommodation, etc., in the next three days. I didn’t sleep well last night and I’ve had a bit of a headache most of the day, possibly because I was a bit dehydrated yesterday. I’ll make sure I get a good sleep tonight rather than make a pre-dawn start.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Muttaburra to Hughenden
Day: 018
Date: Monday, 14 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Muttaburra to Hughenden.
Start: Muttaburra
Finish: Hughenden
Daily Kilometres: 205
Total Kilometres: 2518
Weather: Mild early but warm to hot and sunny for the rest of the day with north-east wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Hughenden , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Peanut butter roll
Dinner: Hamburger and milkshake
Encounters: I saw quite a few kangaroos during the day. In late morning a guy in a station-wagon passed me and then pulled up further down the road and got out. It turned out he was a New Zealander of similar age to me who was travelling Australia and bike-riding each of the circuits recommended in the Lonely Planet guide to cycling in Australia. He had his bike and trailer in the back and was headed forCairns for his next circuit. He was very friendly and we had a good chat.
Highlights: Seeing the lights of Hughenden at the end of a very long and exhausting day.
Lowlights: Encountering a strong headwind and very rough trail early in the day, which frequently reduced my speed to less than 15kph.
Journal:
I had set out in the 6:00am pre-dawn gloom in the optimistic hope that, if things went well, I might reach Hughenden in one day, instead of the planned two, and be able to give myself a day off. I was, however, quite apprehensive about how tough the trail would be and knew I might have to camp out. Before long I was struggling to find a good riding line on a trail that varied from rocky, to corrugated, to sandy. To compound the challenges the trail began to climb very gradually into open undulating grassland and the wind sprang up from the north-east. It was tiring work and my optimism evaporated as I struggled to maintain a speed of around 15kph and I began resigning myself to camping on the road.
As the morning wore on the trail veered slightly to the left, meaning that the wind became a crosswind, and changed to mostly baked and cracked mud. The latter allowed greater speed but was quite bumpy. My spirits lifted as my speed rose, although every time the track veered right the wind slowed me again.
A few cars and trucks passed and some of the cars stopped to ask whether I was OK or needed anything, which was nice. All waved.
The day passed riding through the undulating grasslands in increasing temperatures and I was drinking plenty of the nine litres of fluid I was carrying. Despite the fatigue, I enjoyed the solitude and scenery. Mountain ranges were appearing to the north and east and I had the sense that I was gradually climbing into the foothills. The sun finally set around 6:00pm with 30kms to go to Hughenden so I kept riding. The last hour 15km was on sealed road which made riding in the dark easier, although it was very narrow with no white road markings. I had both hands on the brakes at all times in case of sharp turns or roadkill lying on the road. The lights of Hughenden appeared in the distance with 10km to go and I reached town at 7:30pm, checked into a Fawlty Towers-like motel in the centre of town, showered and got a hamburger from a nearby take-out shop. I was very tired and my quads were stiff and sore, but I was pleased with my effort and looking forward to a day off tomorrow.
Date: Monday, 14 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Muttaburra to Hughenden.
Start: Muttaburra
Finish: Hughenden
Daily Kilometres: 205
Total Kilometres: 2518
Weather: Mild early but warm to hot and sunny for the rest of the day with north-east wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Hughenden , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muesli
Lunch: Peanut butter roll
Dinner: Hamburger and milkshake
Encounters: I saw quite a few kangaroos during the day. In late morning a guy in a station-wagon passed me and then pulled up further down the road and got out. It turned out he was a New Zealander of similar age to me who was travelling Australia and bike-riding each of the circuits recommended in the Lonely Planet guide to cycling in Australia. He had his bike and trailer in the back and was headed forCairns for his next circuit. He was very friendly and we had a good chat.
Highlights: Seeing the lights of Hughenden at the end of a very long and exhausting day.
Lowlights: Encountering a strong headwind and very rough trail early in the day, which frequently reduced my speed to less than 15kph.
Journal:
I had set out in the 6:00am pre-dawn gloom in the optimistic hope that, if things went well, I might reach Hughenden in one day, instead of the planned two, and be able to give myself a day off. I was, however, quite apprehensive about how tough the trail would be and knew I might have to camp out. Before long I was struggling to find a good riding line on a trail that varied from rocky, to corrugated, to sandy. To compound the challenges the trail began to climb very gradually into open undulating grassland and the wind sprang up from the north-east. It was tiring work and my optimism evaporated as I struggled to maintain a speed of around 15kph and I began resigning myself to camping on the road.
As the morning wore on the trail veered slightly to the left, meaning that the wind became a crosswind, and changed to mostly baked and cracked mud. The latter allowed greater speed but was quite bumpy. My spirits lifted as my speed rose, although every time the track veered right the wind slowed me again.
A few cars and trucks passed and some of the cars stopped to ask whether I was OK or needed anything, which was nice. All waved.
The day passed riding through the undulating grasslands in increasing temperatures and I was drinking plenty of the nine litres of fluid I was carrying. Despite the fatigue, I enjoyed the solitude and scenery. Mountain ranges were appearing to the north and east and I had the sense that I was gradually climbing into the foothills. The sun finally set around 6:00pm with 30kms to go to Hughenden so I kept riding. The last hour 15km was on sealed road which made riding in the dark easier, although it was very narrow with no white road markings. I had both hands on the brakes at all times in case of sharp turns or roadkill lying on the road. The lights of Hughenden appeared in the distance with 10km to go and I reached town at 7:30pm, checked into a Fawlty Towers-like motel in the centre of town, showered and got a hamburger from a nearby take-out shop. I was very tired and my quads were stiff and sore, but I was pleased with my effort and looking forward to a day off tomorrow.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Barcaldine to Muttaburra
Day: 017
Date: Sunday, 13 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Barcaldine to Muttaburra.
Start: Barcaldine
Finish: Muttaburra
Daily Kilometres: 150
Total Kilometres: 2313
Weather: Cool early but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Hotel in Muttaburra , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: The “Big Breakfast” from the roadhouse opposite the motel
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Chicken Kiev (which I only bought on the recommendation of the barmaid and regretted later) for dinner.
Encounters: I saw quite a few emus during the day.
Highlights: Getting to some real Australian outback towns (Aramac and Muttaburra) which are well away from any main travel routes. They are little oases (that may be overstating it a bit!) in the vast dry grass and scrub plains that roll away to the horizon in all directions. The towns themselves are pretty dry with Queenslander-type houses and/or broad verandahs, some in poor condition, dry dusty and wide streets, and lots of vacant lots and junk. Each town has a pub which looks a bit worse for wear and a couple of little stores
Lowlights: The morning started in a relaxed way, when I got up an hour later and treated myself to breakfast at the roadhouse across the road, before setting off at 8:00am. My plan was to have an easy 66km ride to Aramac where I would have lunch. But the best laid plans….. As I left town and struck north onto the treeless grassy plains, the north-east wind sprang up and I was soon struggling to make headway. It took four hours to get to Aramac, hard work all of the way, and I barely averaged 18kph.
Journal:
By the time I had a late breakfast and left Barcaldine at 8:00am, it was already warm enough to wear just a T-shirt. Hopefully the cold mornings are behind me now. The countryside quickly became prairie-like rolling dry grass-covered hills with scarcely a tree in sight and the wind blew steadily from the north-east, making it very tough riding. Tumbleweeds were rolling down the road towards me on occasions as if to emphasize the wind. Aramac and Muttaburra are off the main travel routes and the road narrowed to a thin strip of bitumen although there was virtually no traffic.
I eventually struggled into Aramac around noon and rode around town a bit trying to find the pub and shopping centre. The bowling club was a hive of activity, with serious competition taking place, but the rest of the town, including the main street which I eventually found, was dead. The only place open was the pub and the only food available was burgers or pies, so I chose pies. There were a couple of regulars in the pub watching, and betting on, the races but, otherwise, not much happening.
Fortunately the road to Muttaburra was more to the north-east and the wind now became following or cross for the remainder of the afternoon and I made good time to Muttaburra, although it got quite hot riding. I got a basic ($22) room at the rambling but quaint pub, had a shower and bought some supplies at the adjacent store/service station. I bought a pack of frozen bread rolls (all bread is sold frozen in this part of the world) to do for dinner and maybe lunch in the next two days. It is 205km to Hughenden on unsealed roads and I have allowed myself two days for the trip. However, I will get going early and see how far I can get tomorrow. If things go well, and conditions are favourable, I might even make it all of the way to Hughenden.
Date: Sunday, 13 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Barcaldine to Muttaburra.
Start: Barcaldine
Finish: Muttaburra
Daily Kilometres: 150
Total Kilometres: 2313
Weather: Cool early but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Hotel in Muttaburra , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: The “Big Breakfast” from the roadhouse opposite the motel
Lunch: Two pies
Dinner: Chicken Kiev (which I only bought on the recommendation of the barmaid and regretted later) for dinner.
Encounters: I saw quite a few emus during the day.
Highlights: Getting to some real Australian outback towns (Aramac and Muttaburra) which are well away from any main travel routes. They are little oases (that may be overstating it a bit!) in the vast dry grass and scrub plains that roll away to the horizon in all directions. The towns themselves are pretty dry with Queenslander-type houses and/or broad verandahs, some in poor condition, dry dusty and wide streets, and lots of vacant lots and junk. Each town has a pub which looks a bit worse for wear and a couple of little stores
Lowlights: The morning started in a relaxed way, when I got up an hour later and treated myself to breakfast at the roadhouse across the road, before setting off at 8:00am. My plan was to have an easy 66km ride to Aramac where I would have lunch. But the best laid plans….. As I left town and struck north onto the treeless grassy plains, the north-east wind sprang up and I was soon struggling to make headway. It took four hours to get to Aramac, hard work all of the way, and I barely averaged 18kph.
Journal:
By the time I had a late breakfast and left Barcaldine at 8:00am, it was already warm enough to wear just a T-shirt. Hopefully the cold mornings are behind me now. The countryside quickly became prairie-like rolling dry grass-covered hills with scarcely a tree in sight and the wind blew steadily from the north-east, making it very tough riding. Tumbleweeds were rolling down the road towards me on occasions as if to emphasize the wind. Aramac and Muttaburra are off the main travel routes and the road narrowed to a thin strip of bitumen although there was virtually no traffic.
I eventually struggled into Aramac around noon and rode around town a bit trying to find the pub and shopping centre. The bowling club was a hive of activity, with serious competition taking place, but the rest of the town, including the main street which I eventually found, was dead. The only place open was the pub and the only food available was burgers or pies, so I chose pies. There were a couple of regulars in the pub watching, and betting on, the races but, otherwise, not much happening.
Fortunately the road to Muttaburra was more to the north-east and the wind now became following or cross for the remainder of the afternoon and I made good time to Muttaburra, although it got quite hot riding. I got a basic ($22) room at the rambling but quaint pub, had a shower and bought some supplies at the adjacent store/service station. I bought a pack of frozen bread rolls (all bread is sold frozen in this part of the world) to do for dinner and maybe lunch in the next two days. It is 205km to Hughenden on unsealed roads and I have allowed myself two days for the trip. However, I will get going early and see how far I can get tomorrow. If things go well, and conditions are favourable, I might even make it all of the way to Hughenden.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Tambo to Barcaldine
Day: 016
Date: Saturday, 12 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Tambo to Barcaldine.
Start: Tambo
Finish: Barcaldine
Daily Kilometres: 207
Total Kilometres: 2163
Weather: Cold early (3°C) but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Motel in Barcaldine , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Some snacks
Lunch: Two pies lunch
Dinner: Works burger for dinner (what a healthy day!).
Encounters: I saw quite a few (live) kangaroos and a pelican on one of the inland billabongs I passed.
Highlights: Reaching the halfway point, although it’s hard to believe that I am only half-way when I’m already so far north into Queensland .
Lowlights: This was a pretty tough day. The weather is getting quite warm during the day and being the third 200km day in a row, I’m beginning to feel quite tired. It will be good to have a few shorter days and, assuming the gravel roads aren’t too bad, I might take half a day off in Hughenden in three days time.
Journal:
It was again very cold as I set off and my feet and fingers again froze for the first couple of hours. I hadn’t really been looking forward to this third 200km day, but seem to be managing. The scenery continued to be predominantly rolling open cattle grazing country with occasional timbered areas. I decided to ride straight through to Blackall (100km) and have a late breakfast and reached there about 11:15am. There wasn’t much choice for food and I finally ended up just getting some pies from the local bakery and buying a couple of pastries which I kept for afternoon tea.
Around noon I set out on the 107km to Barcaldine, my target for the day and just kept plodding along, taking a break every 20km. It’s getting warmer and I have noticed I am drinking a lot more. When I hit the back roads from Muttaburra to Hughenden, which may take me a couple of days, I will need to make sure I carry quite a lot of water. I will save some of my Diet Coke bottles to use for extra water.
I got to Barcaldine around 5:30pm after riding the last 40km through quite picturesque forests. There was water in some of the watercourses and some attractive billabongs off in the forest in a couple of places. It doesn’t look too drought-stricken around here. I found a motel in the middle of town and got take-out for dinner. I may start an hour later tomorrow in view of the shorter day (150km).
Date: Saturday, 12 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Tambo to Barcaldine.
Start: Tambo
Finish: Barcaldine
Daily Kilometres: 207
Total Kilometres: 2163
Weather: Cold early (3°C) but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with variable winds.
Accommodation: Motel in Barcaldine , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Some snacks
Lunch: Two pies lunch
Dinner: Works burger for dinner (what a healthy day!).
Encounters: I saw quite a few (live) kangaroos and a pelican on one of the inland billabongs I passed.
Highlights: Reaching the halfway point, although it’s hard to believe that I am only half-way when I’m already so far north into Queensland .
Lowlights: This was a pretty tough day. The weather is getting quite warm during the day and being the third 200km day in a row, I’m beginning to feel quite tired. It will be good to have a few shorter days and, assuming the gravel roads aren’t too bad, I might take half a day off in Hughenden in three days time.
Journal:
It was again very cold as I set off and my feet and fingers again froze for the first couple of hours. I hadn’t really been looking forward to this third 200km day, but seem to be managing. The scenery continued to be predominantly rolling open cattle grazing country with occasional timbered areas. I decided to ride straight through to Blackall (100km) and have a late breakfast and reached there about 11:15am. There wasn’t much choice for food and I finally ended up just getting some pies from the local bakery and buying a couple of pastries which I kept for afternoon tea.
Around noon I set out on the 107km to Barcaldine, my target for the day and just kept plodding along, taking a break every 20km. It’s getting warmer and I have noticed I am drinking a lot more. When I hit the back roads from Muttaburra to Hughenden, which may take me a couple of days, I will need to make sure I carry quite a lot of water. I will save some of my Diet Coke bottles to use for extra water.
I got to Barcaldine around 5:30pm after riding the last 40km through quite picturesque forests. There was water in some of the watercourses and some attractive billabongs off in the forest in a couple of places. It doesn’t look too drought-stricken around here. I found a motel in the middle of town and got take-out for dinner. I may start an hour later tomorrow in view of the shorter day (150km).
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Charleville to Tambo
Day: 015
Date: Friday, 11 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Charleville to Tambo.
Start: Charleville
Finish: Tambo
Daily Kilometres: 198
Total Kilometres: 1956
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate east (head early, following/cross later) wind.
Accommodation: Very basic hotel room in Tambo , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Two pies and a milkshake
Dinner: Beef sausages
Encounters: I rode into the very small town of Augathella , which was a little way off the highway, looking for something for an early lunch, and decided it must be the obesity centre of Queensland . I cruised past the only hotel in town where, on the verandah, were four of the biggest guys I have seen enjoying a morning beer and then, when I stopped in at the general store, I was greeted by two more of the biggest people I have seen. There must be something in the water there.
Highlights: In the late afternoon I crested a ridge to find a sign saying it was the highest point on the Queensland Mains Roads system (hard-to believe, but maybe they meant west of the Great Divide). The ridge also marked the southern edge of the Cooper River catchment system from where all water flows into Lake Eyre . From the ridge there was a very gradual descent into a vast basin which was treeless except for occasional lines of scraggly gums that indicated where there were dry watercourses. The straight road disappeared into the far distance and a road train that went past me at high speed was still clearly visible several minutes later. You could see mountain ranges to the north and east, some of which would have been part of the Carnarvon National Park that Barb and I have enjoyed visiting on several occasions in the past.
Lowlights: The first two hours riding of the day when it was freezing cold made worse by a steady headwind. Not only were my fingers and toes frozen, but I could tell it was going to be a long day unless the wind changed.
Journal:
I left the motel at 6:15am, stopping at the town bakery on the way out to pick up some pastries to eat later for breakfast. It was very cold and I quickly realised that the headwind was making it even colder. The wind was an easterly and I therefore had it against me until I reached Augathella (83km) in late morning. The terrain had become more hilly and my average speed must have been under 20kph. The countryside, which was a mixture of grass and scrub, looked quite healthy and the cattle all seemed in good condition (to my very untrained eye). The few homesteads I could see from the road also looked large and prosperous.
I rode into Augathella, which seemed a pleasant Queensland-style small town in the hope of finding a bakery for an early lunch, but finally ended up at a roadhouse where I got a couple of pies and a milkshake. While at the roadhouse I called a hotel/motel in Tambo to book a room for the night. I had heard on the ABC that it was some kind of anniversary weekend in Tambo with a number of events scheduled and crowds expected. No motel rooms were available, but the publican said he had a basic hotel room that he would hold for me.
To my delight, when I set out from the roadhouse for the remaining 115km to Tambo, I found that the wind was now either across me or from behind, and I made much better speed during the afternoon. This road, which is now the main route between Brisbane and Mount Isa , is a little busier, but still not bad and there are often long periods with no traffic in either direction. Almost all motorists and truckies give me a wave when they pass.
I reached Tambo, which is a very old town around 5:15pm and checked into my very basic hotel room. I doubt that it has changed much since shearers stayed here in the 19th Century! The town was buzzing as the Tambo Shire celebrated its 125th anniversary and the pub was humming until well after midnight, making it difficult to get to sleep.
I’ve only got two more days now on sealed roads before 500+km of gravel roads in little-travelled parts of the outback. I’m starting to get a bit apprehensive about how rough they will be and how slowly I will have to travel.
Date: Friday, 11 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Charleville to Tambo.
Start: Charleville
Finish: Tambo
Daily Kilometres: 198
Total Kilometres: 1956
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but warm and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate east (head early, following/cross later) wind.
Accommodation: Very basic hotel room in Tambo , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Two pies and a milkshake
Dinner: Beef sausages
Encounters: I rode into the very small town of Augathella , which was a little way off the highway, looking for something for an early lunch, and decided it must be the obesity centre of Queensland . I cruised past the only hotel in town where, on the verandah, were four of the biggest guys I have seen enjoying a morning beer and then, when I stopped in at the general store, I was greeted by two more of the biggest people I have seen. There must be something in the water there.
Highlights: In the late afternoon I crested a ridge to find a sign saying it was the highest point on the Queensland Mains Roads system (hard-to believe, but maybe they meant west of the Great Divide). The ridge also marked the southern edge of the Cooper River catchment system from where all water flows into Lake Eyre . From the ridge there was a very gradual descent into a vast basin which was treeless except for occasional lines of scraggly gums that indicated where there were dry watercourses. The straight road disappeared into the far distance and a road train that went past me at high speed was still clearly visible several minutes later. You could see mountain ranges to the north and east, some of which would have been part of the Carnarvon National Park that Barb and I have enjoyed visiting on several occasions in the past.
Lowlights: The first two hours riding of the day when it was freezing cold made worse by a steady headwind. Not only were my fingers and toes frozen, but I could tell it was going to be a long day unless the wind changed.
Journal:
I left the motel at 6:15am, stopping at the town bakery on the way out to pick up some pastries to eat later for breakfast. It was very cold and I quickly realised that the headwind was making it even colder. The wind was an easterly and I therefore had it against me until I reached Augathella (83km) in late morning. The terrain had become more hilly and my average speed must have been under 20kph. The countryside, which was a mixture of grass and scrub, looked quite healthy and the cattle all seemed in good condition (to my very untrained eye). The few homesteads I could see from the road also looked large and prosperous.
I rode into Augathella, which seemed a pleasant Queensland-style small town in the hope of finding a bakery for an early lunch, but finally ended up at a roadhouse where I got a couple of pies and a milkshake. While at the roadhouse I called a hotel/motel in Tambo to book a room for the night. I had heard on the ABC that it was some kind of anniversary weekend in Tambo with a number of events scheduled and crowds expected. No motel rooms were available, but the publican said he had a basic hotel room that he would hold for me.
To my delight, when I set out from the roadhouse for the remaining 115km to Tambo, I found that the wind was now either across me or from behind, and I made much better speed during the afternoon. This road, which is now the main route between Brisbane and Mount Isa , is a little busier, but still not bad and there are often long periods with no traffic in either direction. Almost all motorists and truckies give me a wave when they pass.
I reached Tambo, which is a very old town around 5:15pm and checked into my very basic hotel room. I doubt that it has changed much since shearers stayed here in the 19th Century! The town was buzzing as the Tambo Shire celebrated its 125th anniversary and the pub was humming until well after midnight, making it difficult to get to sleep.
I’ve only got two more days now on sealed roads before 500+km of gravel roads in little-travelled parts of the outback. I’m starting to get a bit apprehensive about how rough they will be and how slowly I will have to travel.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Cunnamulla to Charleville
Day: 014
Date: Thursday, 10 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Cunnamulla to Charleville.
Start: Cunnamulla
Finish: Charleville
Daily Kilometres: 203
Total Kilometres: 1758
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate south to south-east (following and cross) wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Charleville , Queensland
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and peanut butter roll
Lunch: Hamburger and chips
Dinner: Take-out Thai chicken with cashews for dinner.
Encounters: One emu, a couple of eagles and incredible amounts of roadkill. There would not have been a single 400m that I travelled today that was not home to a piece of roadkill in some phase of decay ranging from just hours old through to bleached indeterminate bones. Mostly it’s kangaroos and wallabies, but also includes occasional emus, eagles, foxes, rabbits, sheep and cattle.
Highlights: I was relieved to have a tail/cross wind all day which enabled me to cover the 200km in very good time without getting too tired.
Lowlights: Thinking about my step-brother whose funeral and wake is being held today in Melbourne .
Journal:
I was on the road by 6:15am in the early dawn light and was pleased to find that yesterday’s headwind had disappeared. It was cold but not freezing and the road was very flat passing through seemingly well-grassed plains. There was quite a lot of water lying around in ditches and I noticed an increasing number of pink and blue wildflowers. I heard on the radio that humidity was close to 10% which meant that visibility was excellent (it also means that my bottom lip, which is already in a sad state from wind/sunburn will need more regularly-applied lip salve). When I looked out across the plains I could see lines of trees in the very far distance. There was very little traffic and I frequently felt like I was the only human for many kilometres. There are less trucks and road trains on this road, but still plenty of grey nomads with their caravans and an increasing number of dilapidated 4WD pickups (remember Wolf Creek , someone said to me before I left on this trip!).
In late morning I arrived at the very small settlement of Wyandra and stopped in at the tiny general store/post office/take-away food outlet. It was surrounded with pieces of disconnected junk/memorabilia and I was invited to take a tour by the proprietor while they cooked the burger they had persuaded me to buy. I ate it at a table in their front yard. For the entire time I was there, the next door neighbour was watering and tending her immaculate garden, which seemed somewhat out of place in this remote outback community.
The afternoon passed quite quickly with the countryside becoming slightly undulating and heavily timbered, though on seemingly very dry bright red soil. Every so often a track entered from the left or right and you could get a glimpse of the olive green scrubby forest stretching far into the distance.
For the whole of today’s ride, a railway line (Cunnamulla was the end of the line) paralleled the road 50 metres to the left. There was no rail activity whatsoever. I suspect it’s not a very profitable line.
I got to Charleville about 4:15pm and found a budget hotel/motel in the centre of town and felt satisfied with a good day on the road. Two more 200km days and hopefully the winds stay favourable. Charleville is the largest town I have passed through since Griffith and seems stately and prosperous relative to the towns of the last few days.
Date: Thursday, 10 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Cunnamulla to Charleville.
Start: Cunnamulla
Finish: Charleville
Daily Kilometres: 203
Total Kilometres: 1758
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate south to south-east (following and cross) wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Charleville , Queensland
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and peanut butter roll
Lunch: Hamburger and chips
Dinner: Take-out Thai chicken with cashews for dinner.
Encounters: One emu, a couple of eagles and incredible amounts of roadkill. There would not have been a single 400m that I travelled today that was not home to a piece of roadkill in some phase of decay ranging from just hours old through to bleached indeterminate bones. Mostly it’s kangaroos and wallabies, but also includes occasional emus, eagles, foxes, rabbits, sheep and cattle.
Highlights: I was relieved to have a tail/cross wind all day which enabled me to cover the 200km in very good time without getting too tired.
Lowlights: Thinking about my step-brother whose funeral and wake is being held today in Melbourne .
Journal:
I was on the road by 6:15am in the early dawn light and was pleased to find that yesterday’s headwind had disappeared. It was cold but not freezing and the road was very flat passing through seemingly well-grassed plains. There was quite a lot of water lying around in ditches and I noticed an increasing number of pink and blue wildflowers. I heard on the radio that humidity was close to 10% which meant that visibility was excellent (it also means that my bottom lip, which is already in a sad state from wind/sunburn will need more regularly-applied lip salve). When I looked out across the plains I could see lines of trees in the very far distance. There was very little traffic and I frequently felt like I was the only human for many kilometres. There are less trucks and road trains on this road, but still plenty of grey nomads with their caravans and an increasing number of dilapidated 4WD pickups (remember Wolf Creek , someone said to me before I left on this trip!).
In late morning I arrived at the very small settlement of Wyandra and stopped in at the tiny general store/post office/take-away food outlet. It was surrounded with pieces of disconnected junk/memorabilia and I was invited to take a tour by the proprietor while they cooked the burger they had persuaded me to buy. I ate it at a table in their front yard. For the entire time I was there, the next door neighbour was watering and tending her immaculate garden, which seemed somewhat out of place in this remote outback community.
The afternoon passed quite quickly with the countryside becoming slightly undulating and heavily timbered, though on seemingly very dry bright red soil. Every so often a track entered from the left or right and you could get a glimpse of the olive green scrubby forest stretching far into the distance.
For the whole of today’s ride, a railway line (Cunnamulla was the end of the line) paralleled the road 50 metres to the left. There was no rail activity whatsoever. I suspect it’s not a very profitable line.
I got to Charleville about 4:15pm and found a budget hotel/motel in the centre of town and felt satisfied with a good day on the road. Two more 200km days and hopefully the winds stay favourable. Charleville is the largest town I have passed through since Griffith and seems stately and prosperous relative to the towns of the last few days.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Cunnamulla
Day: 013
Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2006
Summary: Riding from 60km south of Cunnamulla to Cunnamulla.
Start: 60km south of Cunnamulla
Finish: Cunnamulla
Daily Kilometres: 60
Total Kilometres: 1555
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate northerly (head) wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Cunnamulla , Queensland
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Toasted focaccia sandwich and milkshake
Dinner: Chicken parmigiana for dinner.
Encounters: The Cunnamulla townspeople were all very friendly and interested.
Highlights: Having half a day off to catch up on washing and e-mail and rest the legs.
Lowlights: The 60km ride into Cunnamulla was supposed to be easy, but there was a reasonable headwind and it was a bit of a struggle.
Journal:
Although I frequently awoke during the night, I pretty much slept through from 7:30pm to 6:30am, perhaps an indication that I’m quite tired. I got up just before sunrise and packed up in the 1°C cold and set off at around 7:30am, anticipating an easy ride into Cunnamulla. However, I soon realised there was a headwind, and some minor undulations, which made it hard going. I had only had an apple for breakfast and not much for dinner the night before, so that may not have helped.
As always, if you just keep cranking the pedals you get there in the end, and I reached Cunnamulla at 11:00am. It was a sleepy little town with broad streets, verandahs over the footpaths, and a few stores which carried a combination of goods. There were even a few Queenslander-style houses on stilts. Like most of these outback towns, there were plenty of boarded up stores, derelict properties and bare red earth, indicating declining local economies.
I bought a paper, drink and a couple of pastries and ate them in a cafe, before finding a budget motel on the edge of town. After a shower and baggage sort out I returned to town and mailed back clothes and maps to Copa that I would no longer need. The bag felt quite heavy, so I hope I notice a difference, although I’m going to have to start carrying more water from now on which may offset the weight loss. After lunch in another café, I did a load of washing and spent two hours in the library reading e-mail and sending diary updates and pictures with some difficulty, whilst chatting with the two librarians.
I had a counter tea at a nearby pub and went to bed early. I’m a bit concerned that, having decided not to take a day off in Charleville, I now have three 200km days in succession. I can do it, but I think 160km is probably the optimal long day.
Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2006
Summary: Riding from 60km south of Cunnamulla to Cunnamulla.
Start: 60km south of Cunnamulla
Finish: Cunnamulla
Daily Kilometres: 60
Total Kilometres: 1555
Weather: Cold early (1°C) but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a moderate northerly (head) wind.
Accommodation: Motel in Cunnamulla , Queensland
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Apple and pastries
Lunch: Toasted focaccia sandwich and milkshake
Dinner: Chicken parmigiana for dinner.
Encounters: The Cunnamulla townspeople were all very friendly and interested.
Highlights: Having half a day off to catch up on washing and e-mail and rest the legs.
Lowlights: The 60km ride into Cunnamulla was supposed to be easy, but there was a reasonable headwind and it was a bit of a struggle.
Journal:
Although I frequently awoke during the night, I pretty much slept through from 7:30pm to 6:30am, perhaps an indication that I’m quite tired. I got up just before sunrise and packed up in the 1°C cold and set off at around 7:30am, anticipating an easy ride into Cunnamulla. However, I soon realised there was a headwind, and some minor undulations, which made it hard going. I had only had an apple for breakfast and not much for dinner the night before, so that may not have helped.
As always, if you just keep cranking the pedals you get there in the end, and I reached Cunnamulla at 11:00am. It was a sleepy little town with broad streets, verandahs over the footpaths, and a few stores which carried a combination of goods. There were even a few Queenslander-style houses on stilts. Like most of these outback towns, there were plenty of boarded up stores, derelict properties and bare red earth, indicating declining local economies.
I bought a paper, drink and a couple of pastries and ate them in a cafe, before finding a budget motel on the edge of town. After a shower and baggage sort out I returned to town and mailed back clothes and maps to Copa that I would no longer need. The bag felt quite heavy, so I hope I notice a difference, although I’m going to have to start carrying more water from now on which may offset the weight loss. After lunch in another café, I did a load of washing and spent two hours in the library reading e-mail and sending diary updates and pictures with some difficulty, whilst chatting with the two librarians.
I had a counter tea at a nearby pub and went to bed early. I’m a bit concerned that, having decided not to take a day off in Charleville, I now have three 200km days in succession. I can do it, but I think 160km is probably the optimal long day.
Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Bourke to Cunnamulla
Day: 012
Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Bourke to 60km south of Cunnamulla.
Start: Bourke
Finish: 60km south of Cunnamulla.
Daily Kilometres: 194
Total Kilometres: 1495
Weather: Cold early but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a light, mostly cross wind.
Accommodation: Camping by the road, 60km south of Cunnamulla , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muffin and biscuits
Lunch: Pie and sausage roll
Dinner: Peanut butter roll and apple for dinner.
Encounters: Saw kangaroos, feral goats and lots of very aromatic road kill.
Highlights: Completing my ride across NSW in less than five days with great weather, mostly flat roads, little traffic and dinkum outback scenery.
Lowlights: My right ankle has been quite sore, especially when I stand up on the pedals (as I do frequently to give my butt a break), and my backpack was rubbing on a particular vertebrae.
Journal:
I decided to get going early, leaving town via the nearby bakery at 6:30am, although I was unsure what my game plan was going to be for the day. It would be a very long day to Cunnamulla (~250km) or quite a short day to Barringun (136km). I again made good time through flat mostly open arid grazing land. There was virtually no traffic for the first couple of hours. I reached Barringun on the Queensland border around 1:30pm and decided to ride on another 60km and camp by the road rather than ride in the dark all the way to Cunnamulla (I probably wouldn’t have got there until after 8pm). Before continuing, I called the public library in Cunnamulla to make sure they would be open tomorrow and that they had internet access. I booked an hour from 3pm. I’ve decided that, rather than have a full day off in Charleville, I’ll have a short ride tomorrow and call my Cunnamulla day a rest stop. That will give me two days up my sleeve on my schedule. I rode until about 5:30pm and found a spot just off the road to camp. It wasn’t great, but OK, apart from the mosquitoes (no repellent!). I set up camp, had a quick dinner and went to bed soon after 7pm with the goal of getting an early start tomorrow so that I would be in Cunnamulla in mid-morning.
Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Bourke to 60km south of Cunnamulla.
Start: Bourke
Finish: 60km south of Cunnamulla.
Daily Kilometres: 194
Total Kilometres: 1495
Weather: Cold early but mild and sunny for the rest of the day with a light, mostly cross wind.
Accommodation: Camping by the road, 60km south of Cunnamulla , Queensland .
Nutrition:
Breakfast: Muffin and biscuits
Lunch: Pie and sausage roll
Dinner: Peanut butter roll and apple for dinner.
Encounters: Saw kangaroos, feral goats and lots of very aromatic road kill.
Highlights: Completing my ride across NSW in less than five days with great weather, mostly flat roads, little traffic and dinkum outback scenery.
Lowlights: My right ankle has been quite sore, especially when I stand up on the pedals (as I do frequently to give my butt a break), and my backpack was rubbing on a particular vertebrae.
Journal:
I decided to get going early, leaving town via the nearby bakery at 6:30am, although I was unsure what my game plan was going to be for the day. It would be a very long day to Cunnamulla (~250km) or quite a short day to Barringun (136km). I again made good time through flat mostly open arid grazing land. There was virtually no traffic for the first couple of hours. I reached Barringun on the Queensland border around 1:30pm and decided to ride on another 60km and camp by the road rather than ride in the dark all the way to Cunnamulla (I probably wouldn’t have got there until after 8pm). Before continuing, I called the public library in Cunnamulla to make sure they would be open tomorrow and that they had internet access. I booked an hour from 3pm. I’ve decided that, rather than have a full day off in Charleville, I’ll have a short ride tomorrow and call my Cunnamulla day a rest stop. That will give me two days up my sleeve on my schedule. I rode until about 5:30pm and found a spot just off the road to camp. It wasn’t great, but OK, apart from the mosquitoes (no repellent!). I set up camp, had a quick dinner and went to bed soon after 7pm with the goal of getting an early start tomorrow so that I would be in Cunnamulla in mid-morning.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)