After riding my mountain bike from Adelaide to Darwin in 2005, I was keen for another such adventure, but one that returned to the kind of back roads I travelled when riding from Sydney to Melbourne in 2004. I hatched the idea of riding from the southernmost tip to the northernmost tip of mainland Australia, and rather than riding along the main (coastal) highway, try and ride a straight-line route that would necessarily take me on back roads and through a variety of terrains and climates.

Wilsons Promontory to Cape York by bike - Moreton Telegraph Station to Gunshot Creek

Day: 032
Date: Monday, 28 August 2006
Summary: Riding from Moreton Telegraph Station to Gunshot Creek, Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) Track.
Start: Moreton Telegraph Station
Finish: Gunshot Creek
Daily Kilometres: 88
Total Kilometres: 3998
Weather: Warm to hot and sunny with easterly winds.
Accommodation: Camping at Gunshot Creek, Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) Track,Queensland .
Nutrition:
  Breakfast:  Cereal and toast
  Lunch:  Bacon and egg roll
  Dinner:  Peanut butter rolls and energy bars
Encounters: I saw some kangaroos early on and a large dingo trotted nonchalantly across the OTL just in front of me in late morning.
Highlights: Without doubt the swim/wash I had in the shallow and crystal clear Gunshot Creek at the end of the day to wash off all of the accumulated sweat, dust and sand.
Lowlights: Unfortunately, the Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) track hasn’t been as much fun as I had hoped.  It is a rough unmaintained trail that is famous with 4WD drivers and trail-bikers and I was looking forward to some semi-challenging mountain bike riding.  However, my memory of the trail did not include the vast stretches of sand which meant that I fell off innumerable times, had to pedal very hard where it was at all possible to ride, and spent lengthy periods manhandling my loaded bike through the sand.  It took me seven hours to cover 46km.

Journal:
I left soon after 7:00am, having helped myself to cereal and toast in the guesthouse kitchen.  Unfortunately, my efforts to leave quietly came to nought when I burnt the toast and set off the smoke alarm!  I pedalled the 42km to the Bramwell Junction Roadhouse in about two hours and decided to have a brunch before setting out along the OTL.  There was a tour bus there and I got lots of questions and was asked to pose for some photos.  Later some trailbike riders arrived who I had met back at Kalpower Crossing in Lakefield NP about five days ago.  They couldn’t believe I had come so far.  They are still on their way to the Cape .

I left on the OTL at 10:00am and soon found myself dealing with long stretches of sand and some rough trail.  At some point, the bike lock that I have always carried in a net basket at the side of my front handlebar bag, fell out without me noticing, so I have lost another piece of equipment.  Later on I noticed that one of the supporting brackets on my left rear pannier had sheared off, putting great strain on the remaining bracket. This was the kind of equipment failure I had feared for the whole trip.  Just as well I brought those cable ties along, and I used them to substitute for the bracket and support the other.  I noticed another stud has also broken.

Further along my front wheel or bike headset, I can’t tell which, began making strange clicking noises.  I can’t see anything wrong.  Maybe it’s in the front suspension.  One more thing telling me that the bike and body are ready for a rest.

I soon realised my target of Elliot Falls was not going to happen, and resolved to see where I was at 5:00pm and decide about where to camp at that point.  I fell off another few times and wasn’t enjoying the tough riding on the sand.  I was constantly getting on and off the bike and was only ever able to ride for short differences.  The OTL crossed a number of creeks and each time I had to wade across meaning I had wet and grit-filled shoes for most of the day as well.  The countryside changed from woodland to heathland later on.  In the latter, the very tall bright orange termite mounds looked like Lilliputian castles dotting the landscape.

I finally reached Gunshot Creek, the most famous OTL creek crossing (dodged by many 4WDers), just before 5:00pm and, after some searching around found a way to get down to the creek and wade across.  I had a short break, checked the map, and decided that rather than press on to the next creek crossing, 9km away, I would be better to stop in plenty of time to set up camp and have a wash.  I found a nice spot, had a swim/wash, rinsed out my gear, and had some dinner.  I had the place to myself and it was very pleasant and I felt rejuvenated after the wash.  While trying to find an ABC station I picked up a Papua-New Guinea station so I must be getting close to the Top.  I’ve decided not to do the northernmost, and less-travelled, section of the OTL and to head straight for Bamaga when I reach the Development Road after 24km tomorrow (which will probably take me 3 hours or more) and then have 107km to Bamaga which may still be tough as it has a reputation for huge stretches of corrugations.  It will probably be another tough and long day.

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